36" Build in Texas

[McGooster]

Hey Everyone. Just wanted to share my progress and create this thread to use if I have any questions (I'm sure there will be many). Thank you everyone for the help so far.

[MarkJerling]

That's looking good! Well done!

[McGooster]

Thank you MarkJerling. Slow process but I am very happy so far. Almost can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

[MarkJerling]

Thank you MarkJerling. Slow process but I am very happy so far. Almost can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

If you can see light at the end of the tunnel then your dome has a hole at the rear! LOL

[mongota]

Hey Everyone. Just wanted to share my progress and create this thread to use if I have any questions (I'm sure there will be many). Thank you everyone for the help so far.

Congrats! It's a step-by-step process and you're on a good path.

[NathanR]

Any progress since last month?

[McGooster]

Slow progress over here. A bunch of work travel and family things have halted the progress a bit. Plan to finish the dome next week and tentatively the second arch. Counting down the days to when I can start the curing process. Here is a progress photo.

[UtahBeehiver]

Insulate dome before curing.

[McGooster]

Ok good to know. I have the insulation on hand so I’ll make sure to do that before the curing process.

[mongota]

Slow progress over here. A bunch of work travel and family things have halted the progress a bit. Plan to finish the dome next week and tentatively the second arch. Counting down the days to when I can start the curing process. Here is a progress photo.

Pic looks terrific!
One thing to consider is the ability to easily remove the arch template after the arch is built. You have access to the on the face of the template, and if you can unscrew the front and then disassemble/tilt/shimmy the back out, terrific. Otherwise, consider for example, cutting an inch or so off the bottom of the template, then shimming it back up to the intended height. When the build is complete, remove the shims, the template will drop down, and you should be able to slide it out.
Not the best photo, but this is what I'm talking about...https://community.fornobravo.com/for...570#post393570

[Baza]

Looking great! Lovely cuts on the inner arch!
Your next two bits (dome closure and vent assembly) are great moments of achievement and you are moving along wonderfully!
Interested in your vent/chimney plans - many ideas on this forum! Make sure to have a read to ensure good draw up the chimney!!

Well done - you're in a good place for great support from really amazing people (who have already chimed in!
Barry

[McGooster]

Pic looks terrific!
One thing to consider is the ability to easily remove the arch template after the arch is built. You have access to the on the face of the template, and if you can unscrew the front and then disassemble/tilt/shimmy the back out, terrific. Otherwise, consider for example, cutting an inch or so off the bottom of the template, then shimming it back up to the intended height. When the build is complete, remove the shims, the template will drop down, and you should be able to slide it out.
Not the best photo, but this is what I'm talking about...https://community.fornobravo.com/for...570#post393570

Thanks Mongota! I didn't even think of that until I saw your comment. Super helpful. I am going to modify and do as you said with the shims to make it a bit easier to remove.


Great question Baza. The vent assembly is the part where I have been questioning my design the most. I am hoping there is enough area to allow the smoke to accumulate and go out the chimney and not out the front. I have my design below. I also have a 36" Chimney from Duravent which I plan to mount using a mounting plate. Similar to how UtahBeehiver did his. Let me know what you think.

[UtahBeehiver]

Watch the throat area below the adapter plate to make sure the opening square area is equal to or more than the square area of the inlet of the adapter plate, ie 6" ID adapter plate is 28.26 sq in (pi x r2) so the throat opening below the plate should be at least this much then you have minimal flow restrictions to the chimney.

On a couple curing notes (once the dome is insulated), start with a couple fires with charcoal briquettes (this is slow and flameless fire) this gets you about 200 F then really small fire, one extra log will spike the temp quickly. This is the point where builders get impatient, going too fast and too hot damaging their hard work.

[McGooster]

Watch the throat area below the adapter plate to make sure the opening square area is equal to or more than the square area of the inlet of the adapter plate, ie 6" ID adapter plate is 28.26 sq in (pi x r2) so the throat opening below the plate should be at least this much then you have minimal flow restrictions to the chimney.

On a couple curing notes (once the dome is insulated), start with a couple fires with charcoal briquettes (this is slow and flameless fire) this gets you about 200 F then really small fire, one extra log will spike the temp quickly. This is the point where builders get impatient, going too fast and too hot damaging their hard work.

Oh man that is very helpful. I just went and calculated my square area of the inlet where the plate would be mounted to and it is only 27 sq in. (6" x 4.5"). I think I can modify this to be a 7" x 4.5" opening that would be more than the 28.26 sq in. Thank you for pointing that out

Thanks for the curing tip. One question I had was, should I light a fire every night and just increase the temperature 100 deg every day? So essentially 8 days of fires / curing to get the oven to 800 deg? Or should the process be a bit slower?

[UtahBeehiver]

You can also scallop the front and back bricks with a grinder. It is really hard to control exact temp increase but a couple key visuals, if you see any steam, you are too hot. Also David S suggest placing some plastic over the dome and watch for condensate, if you see then the oven is still wet. Wet ovens will smoke quite a bit. You goal is to eventually clear the dome top to bottom of carbon but SLOWLY. Lots of time it is easier to clear the top of dome (hottest area) but the sides and bottom are still black which means there is still water in these areas. Later on you will notice there is a particular smell when the carbon starts to burn off, at least that is what Gulf and I have notice.