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Lip on dome bricks using a tramell

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  • rsandler
    replied
    Originally posted by TEDFB View Post
    Hi Guys, going back to the door, knowing that thin stainless warps more than a thicker one, my question is will a thicker one draw and therefore loose more heat through the insulated door than a thin one
    Probably not appreciably; my thinking with the door on my first oven (a sandwich with 14ga mild steel on the outside and Cal Sil board inside) was that the inner layer of steel would serve as an additional small bit of thermal mass, potentially handy for even cooking when baking bread. While technically that means some heat energy is in the steel rather than the air or the bricks, it isn't going to be noticeable compared to a thinner gauge shell. Note that if you are wrapping insulation in steel you probably don't have to worry quite so much about warping since you'll have some kind of structure rather than just a single sheet of steel.

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  • david s
    replied
    Here's an oven that's two or three years old that has a double flue and the outer pipe remains nice and shiny. Because the pipe is supported at the top where it penetrates a pergola I used a 6" pipe around the inner 5" one. There's some ceramic fibre blanket stuffed between the two pipes both at the bottom and top. This worked very well to centre the inner pipe inside the outer one as well as providing some insulation there. The normaldistance between pipes is 1", but with this oven it is only 1/2" because it's a 6" pipe surroundinh a 5" one.

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  • david s
    replied
    Try muffler paints, they may work.
    Left unpainted, f it’s a single flue pipe it will not retain the shiny stainless appearance. It will go a kind of pewter grey colour that I personally don’t find unattractive, it is what it is. My oven and pipe are around 17 years old.
    Another option is to use a double flue pipe and because the outer pipe doesn’t get so hot should retain its shiny stainless appearance.

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    Last edited by david s; 03-28-2024, 02:21 PM.

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  • Giovanni Rossi
    replied
    Originally posted by TEDFB View Post
    Hey guys, hope you are all doing great.
    Been very slow with the oven, other problems and maintenance on the property all wanting my attention.
    I managed to get to the city and picked up some second hand 150mm (6") stainless flue pipes, I also needed 2 X 45 degree bends which I had to purchase new. Has anyone had experience in painting stainless.? The method and type of paint would help me a lot, remembering that this is all outside.
    I researched this a fair amount in the summer of 2023 and found spray paint that worked well for stainless steel and spray paint that held up to flue temperatures. But, did not find any that would do both. Maybe there are new products or other builders who have found one.

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  • TEDFB
    replied
    Hi Guys, going back to the door, knowing that thin stainless warps more than a thicker one, my question is will a thicker one draw and therefore loose more heat through the insulated door than a thin one

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  • TEDFB
    replied

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  • TEDFB
    replied
    Hey guys, hope you are all doing great.
    Been very slow with the oven, other problems and maintenance on the property all wanting my attention.
    I managed to get to the city and picked up some second hand 150mm (6") stainless flue pipes, I also needed 2 X 45 degree bends which I had to purchase new. Has anyone had experience in painting stainless.? The method and type of paint would help me a lot, remembering that this is all outside.

    Leave a comment:


  • david s
    replied
    Originally posted by rsandler View Post
    Aluminum conducts heat better than stainless steel, so stainless is preferred. Mild steel also works; I believe is has higher conductivity than stainless, but still much better than aluminum, and while technically it will corrode over time with heat, the corrosion is minor.

    Or you can take my approach on my second oven and wrap some insulation in Nomex felt as a door https://community.fornobravo.com/for...656#post455656
    Stainless warps under heat. The thinner is is the greater the problem. I like a timber door because it looks traditional and is not particularly conductive. But it does require an insulation panel to prevent charring.

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  • TEDFB
    replied
    Thanks rsandler,
    Wow that "show me your door" thread has a heap of interesting information, but makes me feel like I need to go back to college or something.
    Any way I have some homework and material scrounging to do.
    Thanks so much for your help

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  • rsandler
    replied
    Aluminum conducts heat better than stainless steel, so stainless is preferred. Mild steel also works; I believe is has higher conductivity than stainless, but still much better than aluminum, and while technically it will corrode over time with heat, the corrosion is minor.

    Or you can take my approach on my second oven and wrap some insulation in Nomex felt as a door https://community.fornobravo.com/for...656#post455656

    Leave a comment:


  • TEDFB
    replied
    Good morning,
    Trusting that you are all doing great
    Please could I have some advice on the oven door,
    Is it better for me to use aluminium or stainless steel for the interior door of the pizza oven.
    Thank you
    Best regards

    Leave a comment:


  • rsandler
    replied
    Nicely done--looks great!

    Portland cement-based mortar should be fine for your chimney--you could add lime and fireclay to do the full "homebrew" refractory mortar, but likely for the transition to your flue, even plain mortar would be fine. Homebrew refractory is 3:1:1:1 sandortland:lime:fireclay by volume. If you don't have (or want to use) lime or fireclay, just skip those parts (standard brick mortar being 3:1 sand and portland cement).

    You may have this in mind, but just want to flag that to get proper draw, the flue for a 36"/90cm diameter oven needs to be at least a 6"/15cm diameter round, or equivalent cross-sectional area (~28 square inches/180cm^2). Based on brick widths, looks like your opening right now is around 4.5" x 13.5", which is plenty, but be careful as you narrow it to meet the flue that you don't shrink it too much.

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  • TEDFB
    replied
    I cropped the photo to bring it into specs
    Attached Files

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  • TEDFB
    replied
    Well I finally finished the dome, hopefully I can get the photo downloaded.
    Many thanks to all who have given me such sound advice, I am sure it would have been a lot more problematic were it not for you guys.
    I will be starting with the chimney, now I see that I will probably run out of refractory cement before I finish it, I assume that standard Portland cement and mortar would work for that, and if so what mixture would be best.
    Kindest regards to all
    The attachment won't download so I will send it separately

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  • TEDFB
    replied
    Thanks so much guys for the valued input
    I really appreciate it, have a great day

    Leave a comment:

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