40” Pompeii in Rhode Island

[NewEnglandNewb]

The clay flue liner is just sitting in place in these pictures, but it gives an idea of what my plan is and what the transition for the flue looks like. I do have another section of liner, but I’m not sure if I’m going to use it.

[NewEnglandNewb]

For insulation I picked up two boxes of one inch thick ceramic fiber blanket. I set aside enough to wrap the clay flue liner with one layer and put the rest on the dome. This got me three layers over the entire dome and four layers for the lower foot. I picked up a package of rockwool since it is significantly cheaper and won’t actually be touching the dome (although I think that would be fine since it is rated to 2,150F). With the rockwool added most of the dome has 6.5” of insulation on it. Once the enclosure walls are up I will stuff some remaining rockwool in the larger gaps and fill the rest of the void with loose perlite.

I built up a layer of P/V Crete around the base of the oven to support pouring the concrete enclosure walls. I’m going to use hardboard for the form walls. That P/V Crete will hold the bottom of the inner part of the form in place. The P/V Crete is sitting on tile with landscape fabric over it to keep it off the hearth just like under the dome. This introduced a surprising amount of water into the floor and dome. The next day I could see a line in the dome where the water had absorbed to that was about 2 courses up the dome.

I waited a few days for the dome to dry out some and then put a small electric heater in there to help dry it out more. The dome walls are currently sitting at about 160F). I’m at least a week away from having the enclosure walls poured and the clay flue mortared on. I figure I will run the heater until that is done and then start drying fires.

[UtahBeehiver]

That is going to be quite a insulated beast. I am not sure you will gain much more efficiency with dry perlite and rockwool in over the CaSi and Rockwool but if thats what you want to do have at it. Being in an enclosure will significantly reduce water issues from above and setting the p/vcrete on tile will minimize upward water migration. You can also begin the slow/low cure with charcoal biquettes which will get you around 200F with no flame impingment and you can cook a dutch oven at the same time. Curing is one point where builders get excited, go too fast, too hot and crack the oven. The turtle wins the race in curing.

[NewEnglandNewb]

The package of rockwool was only $50, seemed like a cheap way to make sure I’m well insulated. The problem with the rockwool is that it doesn’t form as well to the shape of the dome. My plan to stuff more rockwool and fill with perlite is more to fill the gaps than add more insulation.

Once the clay flue liner is mortared on and has had a few days to dry I will start drying fires with charcoal briquettes. I already picked up a couple of bags based on your advice in another thread Russell. Thanks for all of the great advice you provide on this forum!

[NewEnglandNewb]

Enclosure walls have been poured. I used some wire mesh to hold 1/2” rebar in place wrapped around the enclosure wall close to the top. Since there will be rafters forming a conical roof, there will be an outward load on the wall at the top. That outward load will pit the concrete in tension, so that is where the rebar is. I also poured the wall thicker on either side of the outer arch to buttress the walls there since there will be the weight of a full masonry chimney sitting the arch. I am thinking about using theroseal on the enclosure walls under the stone veneer to keep water from seeping through.