Michigan WFO

[Lars]

Re: Michigan WFO

Mike,
The two numbers in roof pitch refer to rise over run. The denominator, run, is 12 by convention. A 10:12 roof would be nearly 40 degrees ( since arctan(10/12) = 39.8 degrees)

I am kind of partial to 6:12. Still high enough to have plenty of slope, but nearly flat enough to walk around on... if you're really careful.


Good luck with the stone. Is it cast, or real veneer?

Lars.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

The stone is real. Looks good. I'll post some photos soon.

I'm actually quite anxious about the roof. More so than the bricks, cement, mortar. That all seemed to flow. I really don't know what to do with the fascia, soffit, flashing, etc. Any recommendations for references?

I plan to have the stone veneer extend all the way up the sides. As of now, I'm planning slate roof with copper flashing. Not sure what to do with the fascia. I'm debating cutting back the existing roof trusses at the ends to make the overhang on the sides very short. I'm trying to avoid a "dog house" look.

This is what I mean:


Any thoughts or suggestions?

[ThisOldGarageNJ]

Re: Michigan WFO

hi mike,
i think your proportions look fine.... If your worried the peak is too high, put a mosaic over the over door to draw attention away from the peak.. I dont think you need to but i iunderstand how you feel... your doing a great job
good luck
Mark

[Lars]

Re: Michigan WFO

Mike,
If you use slate roof, copper flashing, the question mark I still have is, what will you do under the soffit? You could use the same cement board under there. Believe it or not, that top edge can be sort of tricky when mortaring in your stone.

And given the above... it will NOT look like a dog house..( not too many stone dog houses around with copper flashing and slate roof--except maybe at the white house!)

Lars.

ps. The storage arch... how ever you treat it, should really change the overall appearance, still.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

Mike,
the question mark I still have is, what will you do under the soffit?

Yep, that's still my question as well. One of the reasons I'm dragging my feet!

I'm not sure what to do with the soffit. That's why I'm considering cutting back the overhangs, essentially eliminating the soffit (like the photo a few posts above).

[Lars]

Re: Michigan WFO

Mike,
I would NOT do that. (Cut the soffit)

That eave will be fine looking. You need to just look at pictures of stone houses.

You need a facia ( which could be treated wood, cedar, or painted wood of some sort) and a copper flashing can mostly cover that up. Fill the soffit with that cement board you are using and either paint or lay a coat of mortar over it ( like stucco)

The board on the fascia will give it a nice looking edge. The copper right up against stone in your photo is fine for that building, but not necessarily the best for yours.

Don't backtrack. It's good. Just keep going.

I KNOW what you mean about fascia, soffit, you would think it would be SO easy, yet it can be difficult. Especially that transition between the soffit and your stone veneer!

L.

[Dino_Pizza]

Re: Michigan WFO

That's one "dog-house" I'd live in! You could put a crescent moon design over the opening for an "out-house" look as an option .

But seriously Mike, that example pic you posted of the copper flashing against the stone is really appealing. But the slate roof will prevent any "dog-house" look IMO. I can see though how attractive it might be to skip the front fascia board and the wood finish under the eaves in the front and back (& the painting or sealing of it) but at the expense of extra work removing your edges roof rafters. I am going to use some fine quality 1x4 or 6's and stain it to go under my eaves.

I guess I agree with everything Lars just said about the overall "look".

Especially if your material colors don't have a big contrast, it would look even less "dog-housey". (ie: a dark roof over very light upper oven over a dark base and completely different color counter etc... will make the eaves stand out more). Then again: you would assume I've got the "interior design gene" but it by-passed me all together for some reason . Maybe next life....

Good luck whatever you decide, Dino

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

Still thinking about what to do with my eaves. . .

In the meantime, I picked up some stone. The flats had to be ordered, but the corners were in stock.

This is "Mill Creek Country Squire" natural thin veneer stone from Buechel Stone. Just applied with Type S mortar. I like the stone. It really has a lot of variability as far as thickness and dimension. This will hide goofs better. It looks pretty rustic as a complete wall. I started with the back side, to get the hang of it.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

I decided to cut back my eaves a few inches. I like the balance of the shorter eaves better. If you prefer the old way, don't tell me. It's too late to go back!! Chances are, the only one that notices a difference is me.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

I packed the inside with loose vermiculite. I found a pretty good price for ~ $10 for 3cu ft bags. Good thing, too. I really should have walled off corners and dead ends better. That monster ate up a LOT of vermiculite.

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

I also finished putting up all of the cement board. I sealed it up.



For the soffits, I used a James Hardie product for lap siding. It is very hard, paintable, and should last a long time. I was worried about using stained wood in MI. I didn't want something that I would need to re-stain every couple years.

HardiePlank Lap Siding

There you go, Dino. I think that makes us even again!!

[Lars]

Re: Michigan WFO

One day you will dream,
In a driving rainshower,
Of a deeper eave.

A little haiku I wrote.

Just having a little fun. It looks good.

[dbhansen]

Re: Michigan WFO

Looks great, Mike. I'm very glad you posted about the lap siding, because I had no idea what I would use for my soffits, but now I know!

[mfiore]

Re: Michigan WFO

Seems to work, Daren. It was available at Home Depot. They come in different widths, but HD only carried one size. Of course it was too wide, and I needed to cut it. It is harder than the cement board, but still scores and snaps. Just takes longer. It came pre-primed. The website states it can easily be painted, just not stained. It's very durable.

[Les]

Re: Michigan WFO

I don't know Mike - I would have made the eaves about a 1/2 inch longer

It's looking great!

Les...