Water will wick through concrete, so we have been recommending putting a few 1/2" holes in the hearth (concrete top pad) to allow any moisture that may find its way in, some exit routes (a little piece of screen glued on the underside keeps bugs from using the hole ). Another recommended addition is some old porcelain tiles (discarded/discontinued sheets of small tiles work very well) between the hearth and the CaSi board. If you use the sheets, flip them upside down so the mesh is on top. This keeps the channels open below. You arrange the sheets so the holes you drilled are not covered and lay your insulation board directly on the tiles...you don't need to mortar or glue them down...the weight of the build will keep it in place. (I understand some of the new CaSi boards are now resistant to water, but I'd still put in the separation system.) Aluminum foil used to be advised to provide some slippage for dome movement during firing/cooling cycles...it is NOT recommended anymore. Turns out it creates a vapor barrier and you end up retaining water instead of blocking it out. Don't wrap your insulation in it!
Likewise, you don't need to mortar or glue down the cooking floor (oven base) to the insulation...the weight alone will keep it there. You will note sometimes a thin layer of fine sand & clay are used between the insulation board and the cooking floor, but that's only if you need to level parts (or all of it). Lots of builds don't need to do any extra leveling for the cooking floor.
The tarp should be more than adequate to keep your insulation fairly dry...just check for holes in the tarp and make sure you cover the entire top area. You don't want water running in from a corner or side that's open. Also make sure you weight or secure the tarp down...you don't want a gust of wind lifting your tarp off during the height of a rain storm
I have added a link to a well illustrated build that used the water drainage system I described above...hopefully, his pictures will make a lot more sense than my blathering on...
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...andpoint-idaho
p.s. Yes, humidity can be absorbed into the insulation materials especially if you are covering it for long periods of time and in humid conditions. David S in NE Australia reports significant moisture uptake can occur in the sub-tropics even when ovens are covered during the rainy season. The good news is that the insulation will dry out again with a couple extra early fires.
Hope this helps.
Likewise, you don't need to mortar or glue down the cooking floor (oven base) to the insulation...the weight alone will keep it there. You will note sometimes a thin layer of fine sand & clay are used between the insulation board and the cooking floor, but that's only if you need to level parts (or all of it). Lots of builds don't need to do any extra leveling for the cooking floor.
The tarp should be more than adequate to keep your insulation fairly dry...just check for holes in the tarp and make sure you cover the entire top area. You don't want water running in from a corner or side that's open. Also make sure you weight or secure the tarp down...you don't want a gust of wind lifting your tarp off during the height of a rain storm
I have added a link to a well illustrated build that used the water drainage system I described above...hopefully, his pictures will make a lot more sense than my blathering on...
https://community.fornobravo.com/for...andpoint-idaho
p.s. Yes, humidity can be absorbed into the insulation materials especially if you are covering it for long periods of time and in humid conditions. David S in NE Australia reports significant moisture uptake can occur in the sub-tropics even when ovens are covered during the rainy season. The good news is that the insulation will dry out again with a couple extra early fires.
Hope this helps.
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