Texman Build

[Tscarborough]

Re: Texman Build

It will probably be fine, but why not like this:

[dvm]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy -


Trying to think if there is some way to use a full length brick in there that would have the angle toward the arch, and maybe hook over the top of the vertical pieces on the outside? Not sure what the dimensions are

I am not sure if I completely understand your plan - would something similar to the notched bricks as shown by Dino Pizza achieve the goal?

http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/8/di...html#post55820

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

DVM -

Kind of like that, but a little longer to give a "wedge" for the arch at the bottom

Cuz I love sketchup soooo much, here's a picture of what I was thinking:

[dvm]

Re: Texman Build

That looks good from here (here where I can't touch the actual oven or know if that shape cut from one 9 inch brick will be tall enough to do the job).

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Gulf, DJ, Tscar and DVM
Thanks for all the great advice! It is very timely as i continue to try and not screw this up anymore. After reading and studying your suggestions, i came to the conclusion that my plan would work, but nobody was super jazzed about it. So, i thought i would try and see if those two bricks on each side might be coaxed to leave their cozy vent home. Much to my amazement, a few cuts to the mortar joints and GENTLE twist of blade (backside?) of my brick hammer, and they popped right out! I couldn't believe it and i didn't crack the arch.
After that, i cut arch bricks out full thickness (2 5/16) side and put in a regular back arch. I hope that was the right choice. I was able to maintain my heat break there and the vent opening is 15 x 3.5 =52.5 sq in. to a 7" flue (38 sq in.)
With my tall chimney it should draw.
Gulf, you aren't kidding about my first meal! Tastes like crap too.
DJ and DVM, I may end up using a cut like that to fill in the gap between the arches.
Tscar, I should listen to my instincts. When i have to ask if it will work, it probably means that i am taking a shortcut that could haunt me later. I have had enough ghosts so far.
You can see "my little friend" in pic a. Those are good blades for this. I even put my 7.25" circular saw blade on that angle grinder when i was "whittlin" that front arch.
Did I do good?
Tracy

[Tscarborough]

Re: Texman Build

I put a 7" blade on my 4" grinder last night, it was probably the most dangerous thing I have ever done outside of a motorized vehicle. Never again!

(I made this for a friend to use in a gas grill to cook 3-5 minute NY style pizzas).

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

That 7" blade on the 4" grinder idea scares the bejeebuz out of me. Sounds like a weapon in a Mad Max movie. I don't even like using the 4" diamond blade without the guard. Grinder, ok. Blade, not so much.

Anyway, nice recovery. You're close now.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

I put a 7" blade on my 4" grinder last night, it was probably the most dangerous thing I have ever done outside of a motorized vehicle. Never again!

(I made this for a friend to use in a gas grill to cook 3-5 minute NY style pizzas).

That is really cool! Was that clay flue ? That grinder feels like it is taking off. Very scary and not recommended.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Texman Build

It is a throat section for a Rumford fireplace.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

I am almost finished with the vent and flue. I transitioned from a 3.5" x 15" at the bottom of the outer arch to a 7.5" x 7.5" at top. I had to "step out and step in" as Gulf suggested. I had planned on keeping the front part of the chimney vertical and not stepping forward, but when i drew it out, i would have gone past the center of gravity at the back. (3.5 +3.5 step=7) I decided to make the transition in three courses. So the sides had to go from 15" width to 7.5" in three coarses, or 7.5" in. So 7.5"/3 coarses/2 sides = 1.25" from each side brick. The front / back transition from 3.5" to 7.5" or 4" is 4/3/2=5/8" ish
Worked out good i think.
I used my last firebrick to finish that vent and i have about 2# of high-dollar mortar left! That was close. 235 bricks in that dome and vent and chimney. ( i used 12x12 for the floor) I took a picture of my waste bricks. I bought my fourth saw blade. I cant believe the bricks came that close. The only uncut brick i have is 3 floor tiles that i might use to finish chimney or may call it good.

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

Tex,

Nice job on the chimney adaptation, certainly a head scratcher. Fun angle to work with. Looking good. You only went through 4 blades?? I'm on my 7th but they are cheapos and the bricks I am using are high duty industrial type so really hard on the blades. Pizza soon in Austin.

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

Wow Tex,
You have a perfectly balanced C.G. for your chimney transition. I do feel that you could have taken the entire step out to the back without going past it though. Do not break out the hammer or the diamond blade before you read on .
I have been working on an illustration of what I mean. Not to scale, but close.

When I mentioned the center of graivity I was meaning the weight of the flu as a whole. A row of brick and any weight + the weight placed on top of that is where the CG line can be drawn. It is roughly half the distance (front to back) in your case. You may remember that I recomended that you not exceed the face of your outside arch. The reason for that is so you would not have problems working the decorative brick in. You could have went another row or two higher with the design that I offered. That would have lessened the angle. I understand that would have cost some more brick. You did have another option open to split the difference on that, though. I had wondered what you were leaving that run over the inside arch for. I thought that you had a plan for it. With a 2" piece of CalSil or a vcrete slab it could have been used to transfer some weight to your inside arch and keep your heatbreak concistent.
Unless there is something there that I don't see, your outside arch is touching that run where some heat loss can happen, and it really serves no real purpose. I should have questioned that but, again maybe there is something there there that I did not see.
You still have about 80% of the heatbreak intact. That is better than most. As for as the step out over the face of the outside arch goes, (unless you have another idea for this) I think that you can take it out with the face brick. That would mean knotching simular to what I did.

To take that a little further. If you will encase that transition in vcrete or other insulation you will lesson the heat loss "from it" which will help lesson the heat loss from the inside arch "to it". The reason I recomend vcrete is because it can also help support the transition.
Other than that, I think that you did a heck of a great job on the brick work and I am sure that it will perform fine. If you don't preheat your flu before lighting the fire in the oven, don't blame it on the flu .
4 blades. I am setting dead in the water right now because my first HF blade quit cutting. Should be here wednesday.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Gulf
Thanks for taking the time to explain all this. I really appreciate it. I definitely needed a CG lesson on this. My first attempt at the vent transition was going from a 14x5 to 7x7. When I actually made the vent 14 x 3.5 and drew it out on paper with all the step to the rear, it looked like it needed to be supported by the dome and i didn't want to do that. I have the tall chimney and plan on using a ceiling support to spread the weight of the chimney pipe although i doubt it is that heavy. The outer arch and inner have a contact of maybe an 1/8". I left the run over the inside arch because it was mortared in during my first failed attempt and i didn't see any harm in leaving it there and didn't want to risk removal. My heat break is in tact except that contact of the 1/'8". That contact is not mortared and can be removed with the angle grinder thus leaving a complete heat break. I kinda like the support of the outer arch touching the dome, but it is not necessary and i don't know if that small a contact area would result in a great amount of heat loss especially if i cover the whole heat break in blanket and vcrete. I plan on grinding that and having a clean heat break, but i am so tired of grinding right now if you know what i mean.
As far as a decorative arch, is that required or just for appearance? My corner build is about out of room. Depending on how i finish my base, i could add enough depth to carry a decorative arch of brick weight to floor. But i am liking the look of the outer arch of firebrick exposed maybe. Decisions... I have wondered why i rounded that concrete in front of the oven landing. i guess i had a plan at the time, but don't remember what it was. I am really struggling with the finish of all of this now. The world will see all of this.
Thanks again and anyone feel free to offer advice on the finish.
Tracy

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy -
on your landing design - you are going to need to do something to raise that up to the level of the oven anyway - so why not just plan to extend the counter at that time? Do a concrete pour that gives you a squared off space in front of your oven?

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Tracy -
on your landing design - you are going to need to do something to raise that up to the level of the oven anyway - so why not just plan to extend the counter at that time? Do a concrete pour that gives you a squared off space in front of your oven?

Good idea deejay! Would vcrete work there? I am thinking not since it will have a small overhang. That 3.5" slab curve should hold the weight of concrete or i can square the vcrete of with finish brick maybe. I have a 5.5" space from top of slab to bottom of FB board there in front. Or 7.5" from slab to bottom of floor bricks. good idea. I had good intentions when i poured that curve. wonder what it was?
Tracy