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  • Re: Texman Build

    It looks great! My concern is that it's going to draw so well that your pizza is going to fly out the flue.

    Fire code is a funny thing. Everyone that sells their house in my neighborhood has to raise the chimney. I've been here 22 years w/ no problem but will have to do the same thing when I sell.
    Check out my pictures here:
    http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/les-build-4207.html

    If at first you don't succeed... Skydiving isn't for you.

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    • Re: Texman Build

      Some excellent rigging Tracy. I feel I've cheated by skipping all that work on the chimney - but you are really punishing on my ageing neck muscles not rotating those images.
      Amac
      Link to my WFO build

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      • Re: Texman Build

        Thanks Les. I think i added a few inches to that chimney cause i didn't want any smoke in the kitchen with my low ceiling as well as all the other reasons too. I planned on trying 6' of pipe and seeing how it did and then the caveman in me thought "just get another 3', it draw good" It will be interesting to get a good fire going and see how the draw is; might get a roar going.

        Amac
        Thanks and good to hear from you. Maybe that's why i have so much trouble in my kitchen, I cant even post pictures correctly. sorry about the neckache. i am sending advil via the stargate for you. should arrive shortly Your build looks great btw. I really like that concrete work. I wanted to do something more like that, but i had so many sq ft and you only live so long, i decided to use the troweled finish on the bar. I think i (i mean we) have finally settled on a stucco enclosure for the oven. I was afraid it would make the kitchen feel too "cavey" , but after using some plywood mockups and drawing on some photos, i think it will look ok. The build was difficult, but deciding the final touches that everyone sees is terrifying. No place to hide mistakes.

        I will be asking for stucco advice in the near future i bet.

        Is there any reason to use concrete board on my chimney chase? It will all be covered with siding and i think plywood or wafer board has much greater shear strength and is easier to work with. I will use screws and liquid nails either way, so the shear strength may be the same in that case and the concrete board wouldn't rot and would be better in the unlikely event of a chimney fire. Any thoughts?

        I had planned on adding another course to the vent top/chimney bottom to hold the chimney base plate, but the triple wall has vent holes for air circulation between the two outer walls and i did not want to block those. So four holes and tapcons and ended up knocking a brick loose on the top of vent drilling the holes, then reset it and knocked it loose again getting the pipe in and connected. 3rd time is the charm for me.
        Tracy
        Texman Kitchen
        http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/t...ild-17324.html

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        • Re: Texman Build

          Originally posted by texman View Post
          So four holes and tapcons and ended up knocking a brick loose on the top of vent drilling the holes, then reset it and knocked it loose again getting the pipe in and connected. 3rd time is the charm for me.
          Tracy
          You are a patient and persistent man! Great work and your build is looking great. You will be sending smoke up that chimney in no time. I will be stalking any advice you receive on stucco as park of my surround will have stucco features.

          I noticed a few posts back that Tscarborough has been banned. Any Idea why? Will I be banned for asking?
          Last edited by dvm; 09-05-2012, 10:06 PM.
          dvm

          My road to pizza is documented here:
          http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f21/...ome-17755.html
          sigpic

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          • Re: Texman Build

            DVM
            Thanks. If you don't have patience when you start this project, it will be given to you in heaps.

            You are right about Tscar, i hadn't seen that. HE has been a great help to me on many aspects. I am asking too, so i hope i don't get banned.

            I thought you only got banned for talking about using gas in your ovens and trying to sale stuff on the forum?

            I hope he can be given some grace. he is a great resource of knowledge and encouragement.

            Tracy
            Texman Kitchen
            http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/t...ild-17324.html

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            • Re: Texman Build

              I was banned for posting outside links, just careless on my part. They lifted it, and I will be more careful in the future.

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              • Re: Texman Build

                hey! you're back. Glad that worked out. I know i have posted those as well. I will be careful.
                Tracy
                Last edited by texman; 09-05-2012, 12:21 PM.
                Texman Kitchen
                http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/t...ild-17324.html

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                • Re: Texman Build

                  Welcome back Tom. I'm glad the FB folks properly recognized you as one of the most valuable contributors on this site.

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                  • Re: Texman Build

                    Two questions:
                    1. Buttressing of the arch. do i need to do this? maybe so since my chimney is HUGE?

                    2. plywood or concrete board on chimney chase? concrete- good for chimney fire but bad to attach siding to. Plywood-easy to work, strong, easy to attach siding too. bad for chimney fire.
                    I really think the plywood/osb is fine. my other chimney is plywood covered in steel siding for the last 20 years and no problems.

                    tex
                    Texman Kitchen
                    http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/t...ild-17324.html

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                    • Re: Texman Build

                      I buttressed my arch just to tie it into the hearth. Other than the buttress, it was completely freestanding. If you have that concern, I would buttress.

                      You bought triple walled pipe for your chimney, right? Seems like you should be able to forgo the concrete board, but I guess when in doubt, RTFM .
                      My build progress
                      My WFO Journal on Facebook
                      My dome spreadsheet calculator

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                      • Re: Texman Build

                        Originally posted by texman View Post
                        Two questions:
                        1. Buttressing of the arch. do i need to do this? maybe so since my chimney is HUGE?

                        2. plywood or concrete board on chimney chase? concrete- good for chimney fire but bad to attach siding to. Plywood-easy to work, strong, easy to attach siding too. bad for chimney fire.
                        I really think the plywood/osb is fine. my other chimney is plywood covered in steel siding for the last 20 years and no problems.

                        tex
                        1. Yes, I think that you should buttress your arch, incapsulate, and insulate your chimney up to the level of your triple wall with vcrete. ( for support). Also, incapsulate and install fiberglass insulation or loose fill vermiculate up to the ceiling height . (for extra assurance since you are installing under a cover attached to your home). The fibergass or loose fill vermiculite will not interfere with the holes in your triple wall but, will give you valuable time if there is a failure in the masonry portion of your flu.

                        2. Plywood is stronger initially. You may be alright with it for the bracing of your "above roof" chimney for a long time. However, I would incorporate some steel strut bracing into this portion of the framing and go with concrete board, should a leak or simular failure occur. If not, atleast I would install the strut type (diagonol bracing) into the above roof chimney framing.
                        Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build

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                        • Re: Texman Build

                          Thanks Gulf.
                          As far as the buttress w/ vcrete, i can do that as a back fill once my enclosure is built and that should be fairly easy and give it all a tight fit. I have vermiculite and will fill the oven enclosure to the brim. I have permabase for the wall and ceiling enclosure. It has a 1 hour and 2 hour fire rating, which i think means it is good for this area of my build.
                          My only concern with using concrete board is that it is not a good substrate for mechanical attachments(screws and nails) for the appearance steel siding. I think they would have to glue the siding on, which i don't see as a problem really. I will call my roofer and see if has a preference.
                          Tracy
                          Texman Kitchen
                          http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/t...ild-17324.html

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                          • Re: Texman Build

                            Sounds great! Tracey,
                            Glad to see that you are covering the safety bases . I did not think of treated plywood when I made the post, but that might be a good option to reduce the chances of a "distant future" weathering type of failure above your roof line on that tall chimney. One thing to conscider though is the compatablity of treated wood and galvanized metal. We use to seperate the two with a coat of paint or a strip of tar paper (roofing felt). They have changed formulas from the old type of "pinta" treating (I think) but, that might be something also that you could discuss with your roofer.
                            Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build

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                            • Re: Texman Build

                              The chimney substrate will be covered in 30# roofing felt, so weather penetration may not be a real issue. The triple wall should handle the dangerous heat aspect as DJ said. I am somewhat concerned with the attachment of all this to the roof. My roof is 3/4" t/g plywood base and a modified layer for roof. The roof is almost flat,so easy to work on and attach to. Right now, all that chimney frame is attached to roof with about 12 #10 screws into the plywood only. I am going to go back and add 2x4 underneath the roof and use about 6 longer and heavier screws to attach. main concern is wind load. For instance, today a front is moving through and we are gusting 40-50 mph from the northwest. I can definitely make the frame strong enough with struts and liquid nails to attach the veneer, but all that is only as good as the attachment at the base. Not really afraid of it getting ripped off the roof. That chimney is in close proximity to me sleeping chamber and i don't want to hear it creaking all night if the wind blows. My wife will second that for sure. using wires/cables to brace is ugly and i don't have anything to attach to anyway that i can think of. making the base bigger is possible but back to the ugly side. maybe that roofer has some ideas.
                              Tracy
                              Texman Kitchen
                              http://www.fornobravo.com/forum/f8/t...ild-17324.html

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                              • Re: Texman Build

                                You say that your roof is almost flat. From your earlier pics I see a rafter and joice type construction. Whether it's stick built or truss, I can't tell, but. Do you see some way of attaching 4 vertical 2X4's to the sides of the rafters and down to the sides of your ceiling joices. These 2X4's could rise some distance above your roof line. You could attach the 4 vertical metal struts to them. The longer screws would help, but tying this chimney to two seperate planes of bracing (Your ceiling and your roof) would help brace and secure this chimney greatly. As you said," increasing the base size" is not an option and it would just increase the wind load.
                                Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build

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