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It is obviously too late for you now, but it is a good idea to slope the supporting slab down slightly to the outsides so water is not encouraged under the floor.
Dave,
I tried to slope this with my trowel after screeding. If I had to do it over again I would have started with a lower hearth pour and then added a 2" raise platform for the oven and landing to sit on. Oh well!
Can't tell from the pics how tall the wall is, but if it is not too tall, I would think about a shed-style roof that runs from the top of the wall down to a short wall at the back of the slab, just to not be worried about leaks.
Dee,
The top of the oven dome is about 2" to 3" above the pool wall. A flat shed style roof is not a option at this point. Although raising the pool wall might be. I'm not sure how that would look.
A picture capturing the whole area would be a little more clear, I'm not seeing what is above the oven.
Stonecutter,
I like the idea with the Redgard. I looked it up online and they listed Home Depot as a distributor. I'm stopping by there after work hopefully they'll have it. Cutting a 1\8" groove around the oven also sound good.
Attached are some old pics with a further away perspective. When I remove and raise the temporary tarp structure, I'll try to take some better ones
I would build block or frame the sides and build a shed roof almost exactly how your tarp is set up in picture #5....if you don't mind me saying.
Stonecutter,
You've read my mind. After finishing the temporary enclosure I sat back for a look and the exact same thought came to mind. Something on the smaller and lower side though. Although I like the shade it provides. Winter time shade with the sun further south would probably be non existent. Still pretty warm in the sun during the winter, in Florida. Lower would be better.
I like the block idea. Lots of decisions to be make
Well started the vent stack.....I'm thinking three more courses them set clay flue on top. Any thoughts and suggest are appreciated.
Ps,
Temporary enclosure had a good test run today. All's dry.
There is 6 inch and 4 inch CMU behind my brickwork, it orked nicely for providing a solid fireproof platform fo my roof trusses. The 4 inch was used at the areas where the dome came closer to the wall so I could maintain my insulating layer thickness.
Above the CMU in the triangle area was cement board flush with the surface of the CMU. And then the brick venier goes to the eaves of the roof.
The roof trusses are welded 1.75x2.0 galvanized steel I-beams used for farm fencing.
I like the idea with the Redgard. I looked it up online and they listed Home Depot as a distributor. I'm stopping by there after work hopefully they'll have it. Cutting a 1\8" groove around the oven also sound good.
Reminder: clean that cut really well, and leave no dust in it or on any surface you want to apply the liquid membrane.
You've read my mind. After finishing the temporary enclosure I sat back for a look and the exact same thought came to mind. Something on the smaller and lower side though. Although I like the shade it provides. Winter time shade with the sun further south would probably be non existent. Still pretty warm in the sun during the winter, in Florida. Lower would be better.
I like the block idea. Lots of decisions to be make
Take with a grain, this is what I would do with what you have.
Looking at your remaining space left between the outside of the dome and edge of the block stand, you won't have much room for insulation (for the first 12" or so) whether you use masonry or studs.
Take with a grain, this is what I would do with what you have.
Looking at your remaining space left between the outside of the dome and edge of the block stand, you won't have much room for insulation (for the first 12" or so) whether you use masonry or studs.
I would lag studs to the side of the block stand.
Not sure what your getting at in the above post stonecutter. ??
Reminder: clean that cut really well, and leave no dust in it or on any surface you want to apply the liquid membrane.
I will clean the grove well, thanks for the info.
Right now I'm considering 4" block wall 3 courses, which would surrounding the dome. This will give me 4" inch for insulation and more as the dome curves. I would get a little more room with staggering steel studs, but feel the small amount of area of dome that will only have the minimum amount will not allow a lot of heat loss. The same stands with the 4" angle that I'm planning to span the inner arch area and support the rear of chimney. The bottom edge of the angle will come within 2" of dome. I will use left over scrapes of FB board to insulate here.
What is everyone's thoughts on heat loss in above described areas.
Right now I'm considering 4" block wall 3 courses, which would surrounding the dome. This will give me 4" inch for insulation and more as the dome curves. I would get a little more room with staggering steel studs, but feel the small amount of area of dome that will only have the minimum amount will not allow a lot of heat loss. The same stands with the 4" angle that I'm planning to span the inner arch area and support the rear of chimney. The bottom edge of the angle will come within 2" of dome. I will use left over scrapes of FB board to insulate here.
What is everyone's thoughts on heat loss in above described areas.
What I was suggesting is attaching steel studs to the side of your block stand instead of setting a sill plate on top of your slab. I noticed the insulation space is limited.
In light of what you said above, forget about what I mentioned. The 2" space isn't optimal, but I don't think it will effect the performance any. I was thinking you would have less room than that, looking at the pictures.
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