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Randy's dreams do come true oven build

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Sort of. I didn't get any adhesive with my rope, but now I know what to look for.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    My gasket was glued on with the stuff that came with my ceramic rope. It was a replacement for a wood stove seal kit. I don't know what the stuff is that did the gluing. I talked to Mrchipster before I did it and he said that is what he did too. I hope this helps

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Randy, how is your gasket attached? I'm probably going to have left over rope and think the gasket up against the flange is a good design.

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  • Gulf
    replied
    Originally posted by JRPizza View Post
    So it's not a plug type door, more of a blocker?
    PS, sorry for the thread hijack Randy
    Yes, that is correct. I have a fairly wide reveal. The door (if I place it directly in the center) covers an inch and a half of the reveal on each side and at the top.

    Randy,

    I too, did not mean to distract from your thread. I just wanted to add my thoughts about the high heat paint. You have a very fine door. I wish that I was allowed to weld , and also had the "ability" .

    Last edited by Gulf; 12-02-2015, 08:31 PM.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    So it's not a plug type door, more of a blocker?
    PS, sorry for the thread hijack Randy

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  • Gulf
    replied
    It's not tapered. It just blocks the opening of the inner arch.

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Joe, I see you went with a flange-less design. Is your door tapered? It kinda looks like it but I can't tell.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Thanks Gulf I will keep that in mind. I just thought I should do something so it did not rust right away. I will keep an eye on the paint.

    Randy

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  • Gulf
    replied
    Hey Randy,

    Great looking door! I used mild steel and the v notch method to assemble my door, also. And, I also painted my door with high heat paint. I have since then removed the paint from the oven side of the door. I have some old pics of the door below. The third pic is what it looked like a few days after making some lump charcoal in the oven. The high heat paint did not hold up very well on the oven side and I feared that it was probably not very good for my health. Since removing the paint, I have oiled and seasoned the oven side of the door much like you would the inside of a BBQ grill. Since I don't store my door where it can get wet, the seasoned metal holds up just fine.

    My Insulated Oven Door
    Last edited by Gulf; 12-02-2015, 08:18 AM.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Jr you are correct I did use mild steel. I had no sorce for stainless and it is much harder to drill and cut. So I figured I would just paint it and hope for the best. If it looks like it needs more paint then I will just have to keep up with it.

    Randy

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Randy, since you painted it I am guessing you didn't use stainless steel? I'm asking because I am thinking of using mild/alloy steel for my door as I can weld it with the setup I have. If I want to use stainless I need to change my wire and my gas.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Ok here is some more information.? I made the front of the door out of 16 gage steel and 22 gage for the rest.? I got all wound up in actually having time to work I forgot to take pictures of everything.? But I will describe what I did. I took 2 6"x 18" 22 gage plates and drew out a 4" chanel in the middle and then cut triangles out of the edge every 1.5 ". After that I used a sheet metal pliers to bend the tabel up to 90 degrees. I did pretty much the same on the bottom but left 1" on each end and made the triangle notches 3" apart and then folded it up in to a box.? Next I cut my inside steel plate to shape so it fit with about 1\8" to spare.? And then traced the shape on to what would become the front of the door, and also a second line 1" out from that. I then cut my insulation to the size of my opening minus a little bit for the steel. Next I rivited the bottom to the inside and one end to the bottom . Then shoved the 2 pices of insulation in to the chanel and after that the other side.? Then I took clamps and pinched everything inside of the back plated rivited it down as I went. Once that was done I carves holes for the nuts on the handle for the door and then repeated the process for the front.

    I now have a nice tight fit and only 1\8" or less room for play. I also painted the whole thing with 1200 degree flat black paint, and placed a 3\8" ceramic rope to act as a gasket . If anyone has a question about what I did just let me know.

    Randy

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Thanks for the kind words. I have plenty of insulation left over so that is a option. I have been trying to post more on my phone but I am having issues.

    Randy

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  • SableSprings
    replied
    Originally posted by RandyJ View Post
    Well I finally got around to building my insulated door. It is 4" thick and filled with calsil board. I will post more about it later.

    Randy
    The door looks great Randy! Out of curiosity, how much does it weigh? My firedoor is pretty heavy, so I ended up having a lighter (uninsulated) door made that I could easily lift & place one handed when I was baking bread or other "check frequently" items. Although I still use my firedoor for turkey, roasts, etc., I do find that the lighter door gets a lot of use. Something to think about as you see how your door works with your upcoming "lighter" bake jobs...just what you needed -- another project...

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  • JRPizza
    replied
    Looks good! Post lots of pictures and details - sounds like a good winter project while I'm waiting for mortaring weather

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