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Block Stand Question - Pompeii 42"

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  • Hi Yeager. For the corners just screw the edge of the steel studs togather. You can reverse the direction of the stud to make it fit. You just need the same screws you are useing for the rest of it. Just screw from the inside of the stud. Call me if you need help.

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    • Thanks Randy,
      Made good progress today (although was working at half pace with the hot weather & humidity!). I got three of the steel walls done and going to work on fourth (the front) and the roof tomorrow. What is that you guys (you and tom!) are using as your facia? Is that cedar?

      Looks like I am going to need 3 sheets of plywood.

      thanks,
      Yeager

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      • Yes it is ceader that I used as soffit and facia. I know my roof used 2 full sheets of plywood I had thought of running the roof out over the prep counter but was worried about how to support it and have it look good. Did you take any pictures of what you have done? I can't wait to see how it turns out.

        Randy

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        • Hey all,
          I am back to contemplating on the approach for my 2' Overhang in the front with my 6" steel. Currently I would have the studs going left/right (vs front/back) which would put the 2' load on the two 6" tracks on each side.

          1) Continue as planned (i.e. I am overthinking!)

          2) Setup outriggers like you do on a house overhang (I'd need another 8' of 6" track so I can't really finish that today)

          3) Do #1, but reduce to 18" vs 24" overhang..

          I think thomas did #1 and it looks great. Not sure if his overhang is 18" or 24" though.

          thoughts?

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          • Hey Yeager. How wide over all is the roof? I know when I was shingleing my roof I had no issues at all and I weigh 250 os so and was sitting on that outer edge of my roof that is probably almost 3' out. But I think you should be ok. But here are my thoughts.

            1. you could reduce to 18"

            2. You could use standard 2x6 wood lumber and attach it to the outside of the track to stiffen it up.

            3. I am not sure what you mean by outriggers. That is a term I have not heard. .

            4. You could spin the roof the other direction and have the studs hold the weight. It will just be a little harder to attach to the rest of the framework, but it is do able.

            That is my thoughts. Anyone else have a great idea.

            Randy

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            • Hey Yeager. I just went back and looked at Tom's roof. He is all of 24"maby 32". I don't think he worried about it. So it is what you feel comfortable with.

              https://community.fornobravo.com/for...n-build/page24

              It is on page 24 post#350

              Randy

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              • Thanks Randy! My oven width is 70" so the roof width would be 8+70+8 = 86" Wide. I'll post some pictures later today. I just got my temporary structure taken down so am committed to getting a roof on!

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                • Got a lot done yesterday! Thanks to all that have helped out so far - you guys are the best!

                  I have about 20 people coming over this sunday, so still have a lot of work to do, but things are looking pretty good. I won't have the stucco/stone up, but did my 700 degree fire last night and everything looked great. Going to go for 800 degree fire tonight!

                  thanks,
                  Yeager

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                  • Shaping up nicely.
                    Russell
                    Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                    • It is looking great. I am glad to hear that you go it built. Are you going to put the plywood on the roof today? I think I had about 17 people over for the first pizza party. I was a little nervous as I had not cooked anything in the oven yet but it went great. Keep up the good work.

                      By the way what kind of stone veneer are you going with?

                      Randy

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                      • Hi Randy,
                        I finished up some of the steel work today and odds and ends (my Air Conditioner also went out, so had to go dig up the part numbers for a new blower - arrghh!). I have a buddy coming over to help with the roofing tomorrow. My roof is roughly 9' deep by 7.5' wide. My thought is to cut a piece of plywood roughly at 7' (or whatever length hits a stud on center) and then place that up allowing the 3/4" facia overhang. This will tell me quickly how square it is! If its not uniform enough I'll just place those two up there (along with my 2' section) with ~6" of overhang and then snap a line all the way around to use a circular saw. Does that seem like a good approach?

                        After looking at yours/tom's photos it looks like I probably want to put up the fascia cedar boards along with the plywood so I can find the exact edge to cut the plywood and then be ready to install drip edge, then watershield. If I want to do it the same way do I just rip the cedar fascia down to the width of the steel stud + thickness of cedar soffit (Maybe add 1/8" inch?). Trying to figure out what you guys used for the soffit and associated thickness?

                        I am also going to mount my supervent plate adaptor to my firebrick. Did you guys use any special caulking and/or tapcon screws? The stuff I saw at Menards/Home depot says it is rated to 1200-1300 degrees, but I am not sure how it performs in freezing conditons. For screws to hold down,I am worried that the tapcon's could easily cause the soft firebrick to crack. Is there a safer approach?

                        I haven't completely decided on my finish approach yet. I have cultured stone on my front of house and fireplace that I will have some of on this. What I haven't decided is how much of it will be stucco vs stone. I am currently thinking of stone on the bottom, stone as a archway, and the rest stucco - but that changes daily!

                        thanks,
                        Yeager

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                        • HI Yeager. My roof was just the right with to fit the whole sheet of plywood. I also squared it up when I put it up measuring from corner to corner across the rood diagonally and then checked the other way and made sure they were the same. Then put the plywood up. I am not sure I follow your first idea but the plan to snap a chalk line and cut off the excess seems like a good plan. As for the chimney I was uneasy about drilling in to my bricks. I am not going to say it was the right way to do it but I just glued it down with some stuff I got at menards. It seems to be holding so far. I don't know if I recommend doing it this way but it was all I could think of at the time. I figured that the flashing would keep it from moving around.

                          Randy

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                          • Thanks Randy!
                            Would you mind sharing which Cedar you used for Fascia and Soffit? I think you likely have the 1"x8"x10' on the sides, but not sure what you use on the soffit? I really like the look

                            http://www.menards.com/main/building...40087993793868

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                            • Yes you are right I used the 1x8 for the sides and the soffit was tung and grove ceader. I don't remember what they called it but it came from menards. It is like 6" wide and 3\4" thick maby 5\8". I think Tom used the same thing.

                              Randy

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                              • Cool! Did you end up ripping down the 8" to something or just cut the length? (Its hard to tell from the pictures)

                                thanks,
                                Yeager

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