42" build in McPherson KS

[slschoming]

Thanks cobblerdave and Gulf

I think Dave has just about covered it. Just dry stack and then fill at least every other core.

I'm not sure what you meant by "cut some blocks" ? It is easier to lay out the footprint of the stand for whole and half blocks.

Yeah, I realize that now, but not before I poured my slab (5' x 5'). I will be cutting 4 inches off of two blocks for each row. Attached is a sketch of the layout of my first row. I will be staggering these 3/4 blocks, so I won't necessarily have perfectly lined up cores, hence the quikwall (surface bonding cement). I will still fill the corners and every other core where I can, but I will also be relying on the quikwall. I am adding some coloring to the quikwall as well, so hopefully that can also suffice as a finishing layer for the base.

[shanxk8]

What about using a 1/2 block (i.e. standard size) rather than 3/4? That way you will have aligned cores. It will mean you would have an extra ~2" overhang for your hearth slab on each of the four sides (4" total). Unless you were already planning for a large overhang, adding 2" to the overhand should not be a problem.

[slschoming]

shanxk8 I had thought about that, but will already have an overhang of about 6". I'm not too worried about the cut blocks, as I will be able to fill most cores. I will strategically place the 3/4 blocks in a way that I can fill the cores in all the corners and I will always have the complete core of a 3/4 block lined up so it can be filled. I may also use a little mortar to join the cut end of a block to the rest of the wall.

[slschoming]

this is how I plan to stagger my 3/4 blocks.. the straight line on the right side represents a corner so the blocks there that are labeled "1/2" are actually full blocks turned 90 degrees to tie into the corner. Turns out there will only be a half core between these two complete cores so it should be just fine.

[slschoming]

Picked up some used brick last night and cut/stacked my first row of block.

[slschoming]

Giant Legos

[slschoming]

Got a little help today...

[UtahBeehiver]

Something they will remember.

[slschoming]

I poured my lintels yesterday in the rain. Two runs of rebar throughout, tied to rebar going down all the cores they come into contact with. Bent some L-shaped rebar and poked an end of each into the channel after I filled it so it will grab onto the hearth when it's poured. The stand is slowly coming together.

[slschoming]

The concrete seems to have weathered the storm.. Solid enough now that any moisture is good moisture...

[david s]

This is the correct way to do lintels, much better than trying to hold it up from the bottom with angle iron. Next time put some wedges under the uprights so they drop a little to assist removal, otherwise you risk damaging the poured lintel.

[slschoming]

I just finished framing the hearth. Going to pour on Saturday. Between now and then I'm going to drill some weep holes. What's the standard diameter and placement of weep holes?

[UtahBeehiver]

no real standard but couple in the dome foot print should be fine, 3/8" or 1/2", some members fasten a piece of wire mesh on the bottom side afterwards to prevent bugs nesting homes. You can also use some pcv and place top just below top surface of concrete hearth (so you can screed) then just knock out the thin top from underneath with a piece of rebar after the pour.

[slschoming]

Poured the hearth on Saturday. I want to leave my supports under my block beam until the first or second week of November, then I will get under there and poke some rebar back up through my pvc weep holes. Once they are poked through I will be able to see them from the top and will form a little bit of a mound between them before I put down the vermicrete layer.

[UtahBeehiver]

Nice work. I see your leaves are turning so your construction season is coming to a close. Look forward to seeing the rest of the build when you resume.