As mentioned above, the center of the brick face is what needs to be touching the form. So, less wedge angle for each brick.
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42" Pompeii construction in Adelaide
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Thanks BeanAnimal, and thanks to all for the feedback. In the end I drew accurate lines in the arch form, where the centre of the arch brick needs to be and I'l aligning that with a centre line along the centre of the brick. I'm keeping the gap required at the inner joints and then simply aligning the brick line with the form line. To be honest I still don't know why the measurements of the required gaps based on the circumference (mathematical calculations) didn't work but oh well pressing on anyway. So getting there around work and other things requiring time. Is there a comp for the slowest build??
RegardsAdelaide, Australia.
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My build ranks right up there in slowness. I started in 2011 and barely put the finishing touches on in 2021 and only because I needed a Covid 19 stay at home project..LOL.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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G'day All,
I had to stop work around 3 weeks ago and I've been meaning to update since then. Unfortunately work will prevent any chance of continuing the oven for the next few months.
A huge thanks to all for your comments and assistance so far, certainly results in not only a much better result but no doubt quicker as well.
It was good to at least close the dome off over the inner arch before I stopped. I'm still not sure I really grasped the tapered inner arch, I think it was a lot of luck but I do know the assistance from forum members informed me enough to get the position of the arch reasonable which was the main thing.
I purchased the dome bricks as is, tapered. The benefit for me was they were available, for the same price as square bricks and have reduced cutting. My old petrol brick saw probably wouldn't make it through cutting all the dome bricks and I had little appetite to do so, so these bricks became an obvious choice. I'm not too fussed with some mortar joint on the inside, I've kept it neat so hopefully all will be fine. Main thing that has caught me out with using them is the joints aligning. Difficult to predict and as you can see quite a few vertical joints have aligned, despite attempts to avoid. Even though I'm only mixing very small batches mortar there is still the need to get on with it and by the time I get bricks wet, height, square, aligned etc etc, well the bloody joints caught me out, a number of times. I can only hope this wont become a significant issue.
As you can see, row 6 is where the switch happened, all bricks are then the same way up. I'm not sure how they will go for the higher rows?
Regards to all, and thanks again.
Greg
Adelaide, Australia.
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Looks FANTASTIC - I struggle with the fear of too much mortar showing in the interior and I know it is brick over mortar for the interior - but I think there has to be some forgiveness (I sure as hell hope so!) to give us some permission for leeway! The thing will still cook a mean pie!
Great job, mate - looks like a solid clean build.
BarryYou are welcome to visit my build HERE
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G'day All,
Hope everyone is going ok in the crazy climate in which we live. I recently travelled overseas with work and therefore had to complete 2 weeks hotel isolation once back in Australia confined to the room. Had its benefits though, I knew when I got home I'd be super busy for, well months really. I think I'd be happy with a weeks isolation ( forced rest) every month!!
So the build continues, many thanks to all for the terrific advice and assistance along the way, it's made a huge difference.
Things are getting seriously steep now. I've been quite surprised though, resting the brick in the IT tool for just a few minutes is all that's required before it can be removed and the brick stays in place. I'm not yet vertical but it's not far off. I think the next level will require longer support. Also, tapping the brick down in place, whilst in the tool, I think that helps. I made the IT tool with a clamp but haven't as yet fitted it and I don't think I will, just not required.
Up until now after laying each brick I have reached in, tidied up the mortar and wiped the face clean with a sponge. Very soon I will not be able to do this. I expect the inside to be a mixture of joints with spewing out mortar and joints requiring additional mortar. A similar thing to photo 1 and 2 where the inside of the dome arch couldn't be accessed. If able I'd appreciate comments on what you did to deal with this issue?
One other question relates to the flue. I plan to have a flat metal base plate fixed to a horizontal brick surface, above the vent arch/vent. I was talking to someone who raised two concerns about this plan and I would appreciate any thoughts comments regarding,
Firstly, assuming some sort of brick bolt/screw fixing, the metal plate and bricks would have vastly differing expansion/contraction rates. I wonder if sitting the plate on some insulation type material and having large holes in the plate would allow the necessary movement?
Also this chap has concerns the collected water running down the flue will eventually run into vent brickwork which will soak up water every time it rains and when fired up will mean significant drying of the bricks, possible quite often. Has anyone experienced/heard of this as an issue?
It's great to be back, thanks for reading my post and good luck to you all.
Regards
GregAdelaide, Australia.
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G'day All, little reply to my previous post, not sure if they're being read. I'll give another post a try and look at the counter on the front page this time.
Progress today, I have removed the IT tool and I have a little timber plate up under the rather large plug hole and a large 2 piece plug cut ready to finalise the dome tomorrow. I have been quite surprised as its only been the last 2-3 rows that have required a little support once the bricks are in, and after just a few minutes the IT tool can be removed.
I wanted a quick and easy way to get the mortar fully in the joints where, like on the last brick of some rows, you cannot hammer the brick down in place. So I got a large syringe (photo 2) and happened to have a suitable size piece of thin plastic tube (happened to be shrink wrap). This allowed me to push the thin tube all the way in and fully fill the joint with mortar, quickly and easily, with the brick simply sitting on the IT tool.
I had a large slab of timber in the place of the 2 cleaner looking floor pavers (photo 3) upon which the IT tool was fixed. I was glad to see the floor pavers (actually fire brick) fitted back in the hole. Whilst there was no reason they shouldn't, I did wonder if anything moved !!
I do have one question for anyone that can offer feedback. I realise these type of ovens will develop cracks and I'm not concerned about that. Question is do certain types, size, location of cracks justify any sort of repair? I have a small crack at the top of the dome arch and whilst its minor I can access it now. I wouldn't wand to cover most of this minor crack with the vent arch if later i'm advised I should have taken action while I could, whilst I had access.
So I should pass the significant stage of plugging the dome tomorrow, and then onto the vent arch.
Regards to all.Adelaide, Australia.
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I would call that arch crack a beauty line. The mortar joint is a little thick on the outer edge but IMHO I think you damage would be done by replacing joint or adding a voussier. Full arches are self-supporting.anyway.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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I'd be dampening the area where the crack is so it's damp not wet then trying to rub some mortar into the crack. Try sieving out the coarser sand from you mortar first so it's really fine. The crack will probably reappear when you get around to giving it some decent fire so don't worry over it too much.Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.
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Originally posted by P3 Stoaker View PostG'day All,
Hope everyone is going ok in the crazy climate in which we live. I recently travelled overseas with work and therefore had to complete 2 weeks hotel isolation once back in Australia confined to the room. Had its benefits though, I knew when I got home I'd be super busy for, well months really. I think I'd be happy with a weeks isolation ( forced rest) every month!!
So the build continues, many thanks to all for the terrific advice and assistance along the way, it's made a huge difference.
Things are getting seriously steep now. I've been quite surprised though, resting the brick in the IT tool for just a few minutes is all that's required before it can be removed and the brick stays in place. I'm not yet vertical but it's not far off. I think the next level will require longer support. Also, tapping the brick down in place, whilst in the tool, I think that helps. I made the IT tool with a clamp but haven't as yet fitted it and I don't think I will, just not required.
Up until now after laying each brick I have reached in, tidied up the mortar and wiped the face clean with a sponge. Very soon I will not be able to do this. I expect the inside to be a mixture of joints with spewing out mortar and joints requiring additional mortar. A similar thing to photo 1 and 2 where the inside of the dome arch couldn't be accessed. If able I'd appreciate comments on what you did to deal with this issue?
One other question relates to the flue. I plan to have a flat metal base plate fixed to a horizontal brick surface, above the vent arch/vent. I was talking to someone who raised two concerns about this plan and I would appreciate any thoughts comments regarding,
Firstly, assuming some sort of brick bolt/screw fixing, the metal plate and bricks would have vastly differing expansion/contraction rates. I wonder if sitting the plate on some insulation type material and having large holes in the plate would allow the necessary movement?
Also this chap has concerns the collected water running down the flue will eventually run into vent brickwork which will soak up water every time it rains and when fired up will mean significant drying of the bricks, possible quite often. Has anyone experienced/heard of this as an issue?
It's great to be back, thanks for reading my post and good luck to you all.
Regards
GregMy 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community
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G'day All,
Russell, David and Mark, many thanks for your comments. Whilst I'm not concerned by the minor crack, given it will only take 5 mins I will squeeze a little mortar in there, can't hurt.
Closed the dome off yesterday, a long time coming and very satisfying. Many thanks to all for the assistance along the way. Now to finalise the entry and vent design, I'm almost certain I've seen your build Mark but I'll certainly have another look. I will be making my own tools as well so no problems there.
RegardsAdelaide, Australia.
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Nice clean and tight brick work.Russell
Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]
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Originally posted by P3 Stoaker View PostG'day All,
Russell, David and Mark, many thanks for your comments. Whilst I'm not concerned by the minor crack, given it will only take 5 mins I will squeeze a little mortar in there, can't hurt.
Closed the dome off yesterday, a long time coming and very satisfying. Many thanks to all for the assistance along the way. Now to finalise the entry and vent design, I'm almost certain I've seen your build Mark but I'll certainly have another look. I will be making my own tools as well so no problems there.
RegardsMy 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community
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Originally posted by P3 Stoaker View PostThanks Russell and Mark, turned out ok. I would have liked a single central plug but in the end the two was a whole lot simpler..
RegardsMy 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community
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