BeanAnimal's 42" build - Pittsburgh PA

[BeanAnimal]

Just remember the most important part of the system is the ground. I too started liking the in use covers since I leave my pool cleaner plugged in all the time it's nice to plug it in and close the lid. I have been using Taymac expandable covers. When you use them you pull them out and when not in use they lay very flat and less intrusive. I think you will like them for your project. What trade are you in?

I own an IT consulting firm, but am skilled electrical, plumbing, HVAC, finished and rough carpentry, mechanical, etc. I have spent the better part of my life building, designing , repairing and remodeling just about everything under the sun from houses and commercial spaces, to discrete electronics, furniture and cabinets, to the daily driver and 8 second drag cars. I like working with my hands and actually enjoy not only learning to do things, but learning to do them correctly. Satisfaction a a job well done and done correctly is priceless. They eye opener is when you realize the vast majority of contractors and tradesmen either don’t actually know how to do things correctly, or just don’t care to take the time. Actual Skilled journeyman are becoming a lost treasure.

All of that said, there plenty of skills that I am lacking... especially masonry, plaster, concrete finishing, machine tool work and many others. Would really like to build a forge and do some blacksmithing and casting

[BeanAnimal]

I opted for 4" Halo "canless" gimbals - They are color adjustable , 700 lumens, 90 CRI and dimmable. I wanted square trims, but they don't make a square gimbal, let alone color selectable. I opted for the 40 degree beam instead of the wide. I think with (4) of them I can direct the light evenly onto the landing area and wash the front wall in light. Will rig up a test this evening...

Meanwhile - it is time to install the soffits in prep for the stonework. I have decided to use beaded 6" pine T&G to match the porch ceiling (done 2 summers ago). Let's hope that the minwax stain matches - I am guessing it won't even be close 2 years and even lower VOC later.

Tangent - Stain is now "paint" for the most part - there is no such thing as deck stain anymore, it is all topical non penetrating "paint" (even the semi-transparent and transparent varieties) that looks nothing like stain. Even the OEMs that used to ship real stain to non VOC states are NOW shipping PAINT under the VOC skus too. It is all ugly and none of it lasts more than a season before it peels or disappears. So much for eco friendly - "paint" the deck every year instead of staining it every 5. Wood stain is following the same suit.

I built the chimney on the ground. It will drop into mounting points already built into the roof framing. This allows me to continue work and easily cover the structure until I get the slate for the roof. It also allowed me to make it square with parallel sides on the ground instead of struggling to keep things square on the roof.


Nice and square/parallel.



I set two (front and back) cross supports that the chimney structure will rest on. These also double as rafter ties for the front two rafters.


There are several mounting points on the cross bar and the chimney will also be screwed to the rafters. It should be very rigid once everything is attached.

I am going to wait until slate day to install it. Cover the whole structure with a tarp is getting cumbersome.

[Chach]

Yeah using the tarp was good in the beginning but when you have the enclosure framed it gets to be more of a PIA to tarp. I was so happy when I put the roof on. It felt so good to just use the oven without having to unwrap it and when I was done to rewrap it. You will get there soon.

Ricky

[GreenViews]

Looking great. I was delayed a bit with other projects, but kept curing, so yet to put on most of my pcrete and assemble my roof. Kept curing though and now ready to have first pizza night . I'm also planning on slate tiles! Mine are salvage from a re-roof I did years ago. Will be chipped up and all, but I like the look. I miss my mosaic slate floor we installed in our last house from very old classroom chalk boards. It was one of a kind. I don't have experience with slate roof though. I was thinking doing 1 foot center steel studs to reduce flexing, then 1/2" cement boards underneath. Are you using new slate roofing?

[BeanAnimal]

Yep! Picked up the slate yesterday from Joseph Jenkins in Grove City, Pa. I have never worked with slate shingles either. Joseph wrote “The Sate Roof Bible”, an amazing book about slate shingles, their history and a definitive guide for installation and every other aspect of the product.

I picked up a square of used slates, I liked them better than the new stuff that I looked at. I purchased tools and enough copper to make me cry. Hopefully I can get it started tomorrow.

[BeanAnimal]

catching up on photos.


1 coat clear stain
1 coat Red Mahogany
2 coats spar urethan. I think I documented this a page or so back


Front soffit completed


another view

[BeanAnimal]

Roof is a layer of cement board over the steel studs. Likely overkill but I don’t want there to be any question that the roofing material is class A fire rated. Not that anybody is ever going to ask, but just in case.

I covered the cement board with 3/4 S4S pine. My intent was to use 4/4 rough sawn hemlock, but the closest supplier was out. Friday at 4pm meant that I either waited until Monday and a 40 mile trip or use big box expensive pine. Sad really .65 a BF vs around $3 a BF for an inferior product. Ohh well.




Chimney attached and roof decking and rake edges going on.

[BeanAnimal]

Here are the slate shingles. I sorted them and stacked them. (I know they should be leaned, but I had no space and this is for less than 24 hours).


I did not ask the age, but they appear to be rather old. I would guess at least 60-100 given the style, color, wear, etc. I absolutely love the look compared to “new”. Many appear to have two wear patterns, meaning they could have been on two roofs already. I am assured that they have plenty of life left in them.


Very dirty, a lot of old roofing felt dust. I don’t care if they clean up or not.


Joe threw in a pile of damaged slate in case I needed it for cuts, practice etc.

[BeanAnimal]

Forgot to mention... on Saturday I had a small setback. While working with the last bit of steel studs, A few angry yellow jackets set out to sting my face in a coordinated and well timed attack. I think they were unhappy that I killed their friends for stinging my head earlier that morning.

Anyway, my ninja like moves caused a small accident. The resulting laceration and stitches on my knuckle (more than 6, less than 10) consumed 90 minutes of my afternoon.

i wasn’t going to go, but It looked a bit worse than dirt and tape could fix. So, I asked the lady of the house if I should go get stitches or just glue it and throw a butterfly on for good measure.

“uhh yeah..that really needs stitches ” was her answer.

The silver lining? I had the pleasure of getting sewn up without needing a tetanus shot.. They said I had one in 2018... frequent flyers get their rewards

[fhausback]

Looking good Bean. I love the weathered slate.

It seems i average stitches every 18mo, and that keeps me up to date on tetanus for the little injuries. The 10 penny nail I stepped on while pouring my slab "tented" the top of my foot, but bleeding stopped pretty quick, so no need to go to the Dr.

[BeanAnimal]

Yeah - sadly, I have had my share of stitches, but more often than not I glue or butterfly unless it is my face or an area that will not stay closed. This was over the top of the pointer finger knuckle. I did a good job this time.

The slate is going up MUCH easier than I anticipated. I am actually have a lot of fun with this part of the project. The slate cutter works perfectly and Joe's book (and myriad of videos) take all of the guesswork out if it.

I had planned on NOT using roofing felt, as really does nothing useful once the roof is installed. The only real purpose is to keep the roof dry until the slate is installed. That said, we have (finally) a lot of rain forecast and my tarps are pretty beat up. I hope to finish the job without buying new ones. I decided to felt the roof in hopes of keeping the calsil and dome dry.

I don't want to work myself into a corner - so am slating away from the chimney for now. I don't want to walk on or even hook ladder over the finished roof. I hope to have the veneer stone this week and will installed the chimney first so that I can finish and flash the slate as I go.



Joe had some mismatched pieces of drip edge at a huge discount, so I took them. The sides match and the front and back are each different, more character!


I have left the front for last, the landing ledge should be here this week, it ended up being 4” thick and I am a bit disappointed, but will deal with it, I need to build up the front edge to accept it.


got started on slate at the center, and am working to the left away from the chimney.

Details:
10x18 scalloped Vermont unfading purple slate (very old, reclaimed)

Headlap 4" (the wear marks indicate they came from a 3" headlap roof that may have had first row or two with 4" of headlap.

The 4" of headlap on an 18" slate leaves a 7" reveal. (18-4)/2 = reveal

I considered going with even 5" of headlap and a 6.5" reveal, but feared I would run out of good slates and there is no more to be had, he gave me the whole lot.

The starter course is 2 layers thick 10x11, from damaged full slates. First (bottom) starter row is turned upside down, with bottom side facing the top. This would normally be the ONLY starter row, with the first layer being placed over top of it. This allows the front edge to come to a point and look correct (per Joe's book and tradition).

In my case, i added a second (top) starter row placed good side up so that the area between the scallops on the first row is the traditional two layers. This also leaves a nice beveled edge on that same exposed area. If I used a single layer upside down, it would be a sharp edge, not flaked like the rest of the shingles. I set the first row back 1/4" in or so so as not to have an awkward edge in the small scallop tips where there are actually (3) stacked slates at the edge of the roof. I hope that makes sense.

The wood strip you see is the the cant strip used to rase the front edge to ensure that all of the slate lays on the same plane. Often a drop edge with a hump is built in, this was not available for cheap, so I used the old school traditional method (again, Joe's book and tradition).

I will try to remember to post detailed photos of the starter row, etc.

[BeanAnimal]

Not a lot to update.

I was able to get the correct chimney liner parts ordered and installed today.

The flue gallery has a 7” stainless starting collar installed. I wanted to use 7” stainless double wall duravent chimney liner.

Required
7DT-FC finishing collar
7DBK-ADSL Snap lock adapter

The snap lock adapter fits inside the flue starting color.
The finish collar slips over the snap lock adapter.
The finish collar connects to the chimney liner with the twist lock connection.

This was an expensive setup, as you all well know. The hardest part was getting answers from Northline and other vendors... had to explain 20 times that I didn’t need a ceiling support box or wall thimble and just needed to transition from7” single wall stove pipe to the duravent. They kept telling me I couldn’t do it without the monstrous ceiling support. Duratech support squared me away in 45 seconds. I should have started there.

Stone arrives Monday. Honestly, I am not looking forward to the install process, especially the grouting.

[SandySpringsPizza]

I too have screwed in cement board over my steel stud roof frame. Am I correct that you then placed 3/4 S4S pine over the cement board and will apply the roofing material to the wood? How did you attached the pine to the cement board? Screws?

I had originally thought that I'd apply the roofing material directly to the cement board, but worried that screws or nails would damage the cement board. Also considered using an adhesive. I like your method.

Thanks,

[BeanAnimal]

I too have screwed in cement board over my steel stud roof frame. Am I correct that you then placed 3/4 S4S pine over the cement board and will apply the roofing material to the wood? How did you attached the pine to the cement board? Screws?

I had originally thought that I'd apply the roofing material directly to the cement board, but worried that screws or nails would damage the cement board. Also considered using an adhesive. I like your method.

Thanks,

Sorry for the late reply

Yes 3/4 S4S over the cement board. I wanted a class A fire rated roof structure, even if it is overkill.

Pine is screwed through to the steel. Cement board will not hold roofing by itself, it will spall and the nails or screws will be loose and likely lifted by wind.

You could use plywood, but solid wood will last a lifetime and plywood glue will delaminate in a rather short comparable timespan. I would have preferred 4/4 hemlock or other rough hardwood, but was in too much of a hurry to go pick it up from the mill. It would have been 1/4 the cost.

[BeanAnimal]

Just slowly working on finishing. Have only had the single curing fire back in July - oddly not had much of an urge to get cooking. I just want to get this thing done first. I get an hour or so a few times a week to work on it.

I have started with the stone veneer and should be done in a few days.
My brother and I lifted the landing stone (400 pounds) into place over the weekend and i was able to start getting the arch veneer brickwork done.

The Type S was not worth a dam for the brick veneer and it needs to sit 2" proud of the stand face to match the stone profile. I build up mortar to about 1" and then adhered the brick to a 1/2" arch backer cut from cement board. I used exterior modified thinset, and then used the same thinset to adhere the pre-fab "arch" to the front of the oven. I used a few tapcons, but they were not needed.

I will use the same template method for the entry arch, sandwiching blanket between the firebrick and the template that hold the brick veneer. Nice thermal break and will be fully covered by the corner brick veneers.





End bricks left off for easy fitting and will be attached after springer stones adhered.

So much easier then trying to set the arch bricks in-situ