32 Inch Cape Build

[mongota]

Apologize answering for Russell, but "TDC" = "top dead center", as in the keystone brick at the top of the arch.

[CapePizza]

Thanks Mongo. Appreciate the follow up. Now I understand when Russel suggested removing the arch bricks from the form, except for center brick, and marking it from the sides.
BTW, I was reviewing your build posts and found your post #60 pretty helpful.
I'm moving on all this methodically and slowly. Just want to make sure I understand and can visualize it all before I start cutting more brick.
As usual, thank you again for the help.

[mongota]

Hey, I'm glad #60 helped.

That's what it's all about, taking your time to absorb. It's a lot easier to do it right the first time than to break things apart and rebuild.

One of the tough things with an open forum is there are a lot of things that these individual builds have in common, but there are also a lot of things we've all done differently. Procedures versus techniques. There are certain procedures we all have to follow, but we all develop and embrace or favorite techniques.

A lot of individual techniques work, but we find some easier to embrace and implement based on how we interpret and absorb information.

[CapePizza]

Hello, asking for review of the attached. Does this look correct? I think it "may be", but there's always self doubt.
When the brick is lowered into position (2nd image) should it necessarily lie flat, surface to surface, on the arch brick? Image is showing a gap. Maybe inconsequential?
Also, does the 3rd image, overhead shot of where arch form lines up with oven diameter circle look correct for placement of the arch?

If this is all somewhat in the ballpark I'd feel more comfortable moving forward, so any comments would be helpful and do really appreciate the help. THANKS!!

[UtahBeehiver]

Sorry for not answering on TDC, our power has been out for two days due to hurricane winds that ripped to Salt Lake but Mongota took care of you.

Those are great pics on showing tapered inner arch concept. As far as gap on the back side, what you really after is a small joint on the inside, mortar will fill the back just like your course bricks.

[CapePizza]

Sorry to hear of the weather disruptions. With the fires and hurricanes sounds challenging towards the west coast from my part of the world. Hope all is well now.

Thanks for the feedback. Working all this out in CAD is one thing. Building a model ( or a WFO) is another activity but I just want to understand what I’m doing when I get to cutting brick. Good luck getting back up and running from the weather. Thanks again.

[mongota]

If this is all somewhat in the ballpark...

That's better than ballpark. You hit the square nail on the head. Perfect.

Agree with Russell, the outside gap in your second drawing is just like the gap in any other course of brick.

Nice work.

Hope all is well with you and your family, Russell. We lost power for five days at the beginning of the month, fall out from Isaias. Loving my generator!

[CapePizza]

Making some progress. Firstly, I think I've finally comprehended the dome to arch transitioning layout. I'd especially like to thank Utahbehiver and Mongo for their help with this. Utahbehiver's post #30 on this thread and his other remarks on this thread and Mongo's post # 60 on his build thread were particularly helpful. I'd suggest anyone who needs some help understanding the concept of laying out the arch brick cuts to review Mongo's #60 post. I've attached an image of what I've come up with for my oven.

I also revised my IT and designed and built a compound mitering jig for cutting compound angles on the brick. Photos attached.

My Insulation board has finally arrived. Will post pictures when I start to get the foamglas and insulation board into place.
John

[Baza]

CapePizza I have to agree that between Utah and Mongo we have all benefited greatly from their collective wisdom, clear explanations and kindness!
I LOVE the drawings you have done and am so grateful as I bash headlong into my arch build this weekend!

Your jig ... (and IT rebuild) look fantastic - what materials did you use and where did you get such material?
I gave up on my wood one when it warped! (sigh)
I've been free-cutting a bit (working) but willing to try a jig again if the material and design are good!

Looking great, sir!
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and angst (and fun!) ... you're not alone!
Barry

[CapePizza]

Do you moisten the 50/50 clay silica sand mix used when leveling up the foamglas layer? What I mean is, I'm using it dry to level up, but is it a good idea to kind of give a water mist on the sand clay just outside of the foamglas just to kind of set that outer permitter of sand/clay? Thanks

[CapePizza]

Hi Barry (Baza), I apologize for not answering your question right away. You had questioned the material used for the miter jig I built.
The material is basically ABS plastic. I have a 3-D printer. I designed the jig in CAD (solidworks) and printed out the parts on the printer.
I hope your arch build went smoothly. That part of the build and transitioning the dome to the arch seems to be the most challenging. Yes,
a lot of fun this project is. Kind of taken over my life for now, which seems to be a similar sentiment from what I gather from others on the forum

[CapePizza]

Couple of questions before I move forward. Hopefully someone can offer some insights.

1) I'm planning on mortaring in place the first row tomorrow (the "half header" row). As you can see from the attached photo the joints are kind of tight. The bricks butt up one to the other with
little to no room for mortar. Would it be advisable to leave a little more space between each brick so there could be mortar between each brick (even if its only an eighth inch or so).

2) There's another photo showing a brick on the IT positioned in place. The vertex edge of the brick is kind of hanging over the space between the floor bricks and the half header bricks (like where the
cardboard spacer is). Would it be better to shorten the IT a bit so the brick's vertex sits on the floor brick?

3) Asked this before but not get an answer. I'll ask again. Is it a good (or not so good) idea to mist spray water around the outside of the foamglas where the 50/50 mix of clay and sand is to kind of solidify it
(cure it) so it hardens up. Or just leave it be a powder?

Thanks so much for any help. Appreciate it.
John

[mongota]

Not gospel, just my opinion:

1) I prefer a bit of mortar, so even 1/8" would be fine. You'll still want the bricks to sit in their current positions (don't let the diameter or the ring increase), so you'll have to cut your last brick. Or, in a perfect world, all those eighths or mortar will add up to the width of one brick!

2) I recommend keeping the dome diameter as planned. Any gaps, sweep some ash in them after your first fire.

3) What you propose sounds fine, but without first-hand knowledge, I'll leave this one up to the judges.

[CapePizza]

Thanks Mongo for the follow up. I think I'll adjust a few of the bricks which will allow some spacing between the bricks to insert some mortar. Will keep the dome at 16 inch radius as I'm realizing the mortar will hold the brick and really doesn't matter if the corner vertex overhangs that space. Think I'll hit the corner of the foamglas with a little water mist and remove the excess sand/clay mixture.
On another note, I was looking over your build posts this morning. Really impressive. Thank you again for your help!

[CapePizza]

To resolve the issue of not having room for mortar fitting between too tightly placed bricks for the half header row, I removed some material on each brick but left about 3/4 of an inch on each side where they touched on the inside next to floor bricks. This way still maintained brick to brick contact on inside circumference (that 3/4 inch or so) but opened up some area between each brick to fill with mortar on the outside. Hope to mortar these in place tomorrow.