32 Inch Cape Build

[MarkJerling]

That's some trickery!

[mongota]

I'm thinking the flue pipe should be as close to the oven arch as possible, while still leaving enough meat on the bricks that are next to the opening arch to support the anchor plate and flue pipe. Right now I'm wondering if the flue pipe/anchor plate should be moved back towards the dome a bit. Appreciate hearing any thoughts. Thank you.

EDIT: I should have mentioned the reason for my thought about moving the flue pipe back (maybe obvious), I'm afraid of smoke/heat exiting the oven front rather than going up the flue. I suppose another thing I could do is bring the front arch tunnel out more, increase it's length a bit. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

I read your post yesterday and since we were cooking in the WFO last night, I took notes as the fire progressed as well as a few pics and video. Can't upload the video t this time as I haven't uploaded it. But I did make a post on my build thread, post #187. I can only show what I did and how it works for me, but it may help in your decision making whichever way you chose to go.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...961#post431961

[CapePizza]

mongota Thanks. I was working on the vent arch tunnel form today so just now was able to look at your post on my build thread and the link you provided. All very helpful, so thanks again! I keep fine tuning my vent arch "tunnel" including the flue gallery, flue brick design and layout. Just want to feel comfortable with it all before moving forward... but think I've got it now. I'm finding working all this out in CAD is very helpful.... along with looking at many previous builds and from listening to helpful hints from other members, such as yourself. So thanks, once again!

[CapePizza]

Sharing my final design / layout for the vent tunnel and flue gallery.

[Baza]

WOW John - I'm REALLY looking forward to watching this come together!
You have some pretty interesting cuts ahead of you! This will be spectacular

Looks like the first arch outside the dome and the flared approach outward from it is intended to pull the smoke right up in an almost linear route!
Pretty genius.

Keep the pics coming - this looks interesting!
Barry

[CapePizza]

Thank you for your comments, Barry, Baza. I wound up looking at a lot other's vent / chimney set ups. And the more I looked at motivated me to keep tweaking my own design. I particularly looked at a "Barrel Oven" thread by a gentleman, Karangi Dude. I had mentioned his thread before (but that was of a 48 inch oven he had built). This was a thread of another oven he built and I "borrowed" his idea of using the form to create the draw gallery for the flue. HIs ovens are very well designed and very clean. Quite inspirational. I know what you mean by the "interesting cuts ahead of me". We'll see how my patience holds out Slow and steady hopefully.

[CapePizza]

Positioned the outer vent tunnel form today. Hope to start laying the brick tomorrow.
Trying to keep aware of being able to remove all the form parts once the brick is in place

[Hatzi]

why insert ceramic rope between the outer vet tunnel and entry arch to the dome. Would using refec mortar not do the job of sealing the gap?

[CapePizza]

Hello Hatzi, Hatzi. I'm certainly not an expert on the topic you bring up, but I can respond with what I know. Ceramic rope is used as a gasket. It responds well to high temperatures, certainly the temps a WFO would produce. It's also good as a sealant, as in being a "roadblock" for smoke, fumes and the like a wood fired oven would produce. It's flexible so it will kind of move with the expansion and contraction of the bricks as they respond to the varying temps of the oven. I don't believe any of what I've mentioned would apply to the "refac mortar" you make note of, which would probably crack, crumble and degrade over time with the constant highs and lows of the different temps. I will stuff the rope into the 1/2 inch gap that will be left between the dome and the outer vent tunnel. I'm planning on filling the remainder of the gap with P-Crete.... which may crack or otherwise separate from one of the surfaces it's applied to, but I'm relying on the rope to do the actual "sealing". Others with more knowledge in this area may have more to say on this.

[Hatzi]

Hello Hatzi, Hatzi. I'm certainly not an expert on the topic you bring up, but I can respond with what I know. Ceramic rope is used as a gasket. It responds well to high temperatures, certainly the temps a WFO would produce. It's also good as a sealant, as in being a "roadblock" for smoke, fumes and the like a wood fired oven would produce. It's flexible so it will kind of move with the expansion and contraction of the bricks as they respond to the varying temps of the oven. I don't believe any of what I've mentioned would apply to the "refac mortar" you make note of, which would probably crack, crumble and degrade over time with the constant highs and lows of the different temps. I will stuff the rope into the 1/2 inch gap that will be left between the dome and the outer vent tunnel. I'm planning on filling the remainder of the gap with P-Crete.... which may crack or otherwise separate from one of the surfaces it's applied to, but I'm relying on the rope to do the actual "sealing". Others with more knowledge in this area may have more to say on this.

I have seen a few builds using the "ceramic rope" and all have mentioned what you are talking about.

Maybe, i am thinking about it too simplistically, however the problems that you are trying to solve with the ceramic rope at the "joint" that you are using it for are in effect the same problems that the whole oven (including the dome) will experience (i.e, expansion of bricks, sealing for smoke etc). When we build the dome, we will use refractory mortar - this seams to stop the problems. So i am still trying to work out, if the mortar works for the dome, then why would it not work for the "joint" that we are talking about?

So i am just trying to work out if it is really necessary to use the ceramic rope.

[CapePizza]

The vent tunnel and floor under it can be a heat sink and draw off heat from the oven. Separating it from the dome is beneficial. The rope seals off the gap and prevents heat loss.

[Frank C]

Hello CapePizza. Watching your build over the past couple weeks with great interest. I'm working on a Solidworks design as well and I can see you are quite skilled with that not to mention the brickwork! Can you tell me what the white material is attached? And how did you form that? Also, the black material at the base? Apologies if I missed this information in the forum posts.

[CapePizza]

HelloFrank C . The white material is ABS plastic from a 3-D printer. The black material is Gorilla tape. Like others, I covered the floor with cardboard and the tape just kind of held it in place and sealed off the cardboard from dust and all else from getting under the cardboard. When you see how much dust and chunks of mortar accumulate during the build and drop on the floor, having that cardboard protection is worth it. If you're handy with Solidworks I find working out the design in CAD is/was a real help (I'm still tweaking it as I continue the build). In the end you have to make a lot of on the spot decision making as the CAD doesn't take into account the varying mortar thicknesses and other brick cutting discrepancies that occur along the way. It took me a while to realize cutting brick is not like milling a piece of plastic The CAD will also give you an idea of how many bricks you'll need.Hello

[CapePizza]

Question about installing the anchor plate for the flue pipe. I currently have one brick (each layer or row of bricks having just 1 brick in depth) to hold the anchor plate and I'm wondering if just having one brick
is going to provide enough support, considering the extra weight when the flue pipe gets installed and with high winds and all.

Would it be better to have 2 bricks so the "chimney" has a little more heft providing more support, or will the single brick be enough?

The other question is what is a good way to "fix" the anchor plate in place. Should it be somehow be bolted in place to the bricks it rests on.... or cemented in place. I currently was thinking of coring out a space
in the bricks it will rest on so it gets recessed into those bricks, and then the plate's flange get covered with mortar when the next row of bricks are installed.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. I've attached some CAD images of what I've currently got planned, but looking for thoughts about whether or not my plan is the best way to go.

Thank you!!

[CapePizza]

Sharing some photos of the start of the flared entrance. Hoping to start installing the flue gallery bricks tomorrow.

If anyone has any thoughts about the questions asked in my previous post above this (post #179), I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts.

Thanks.