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42" In South GA

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  • Taking input.... does this seem reasonable and sufficient for in-between my entry floor and oven floor? in addition to putting it around where my entry arch meets inner arch?
    Thanks
    PS Tried attaching link...didn't work, so just copy
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 01-22-2022, 10:59 AM. Reason: Removed commercial link

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    • lets try this...

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      • Check with any general hardware store in your area for stove gasket kits (or do a search online). The roll of boiler tape you pictured would certainly work, but seems like you'll end up with more than you need...

        p.s. We routinely delete those links to commercial sites as a forum policy & as a courtesy to our Forno Bravo web hosts.
        Mike Stansbury - The Traveling Loafer
        Roseburg, Oregon

        FB Forum: The Dragonfly Den build thread
        Available only if you're logged in = FB Photo Albums-Select media tab on profile
        Blog: http://thetravelingloafer.blogspot.com/

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        • Slow going, but almost closing!! Question, I have seen a couple builds with 2 piece keystone/plugs…any reason not to do this route? My approx opening right now is 5” x 5” so I feel a two piece plug is the best way rather then trying to shim up the opening more to accommodate a smaller plug. And I feel getting another “row” would just be more of a headache.
          Let me know thoughts on the two piece.
          and some other update pics…yes the 1 joint that lines up frustrates me too.

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          • I made a 2 piece plug but it was horizontal rather than vertical but my bricks were also 6" wide rather than 4" as well but I have seen two piece vertical plugs done by other builders with no adverse affect as long as there is a slight taper top to bottom.
            Russell
            Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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            • Ok, thanks and yes if I remember your two pice top and bottom (horizontal)? And just for a very rough visual representation in what you mean vertical is two tapered bricks side by side…this is what I have in my head.

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              • Sorry, to elaborate a bit more after I thought about it…I guess my plug will actually be 4 piece. The first two (my wonderful art work) will be tapered and lay flat (thin side) so only 2” thick, then I will do it again perpendicular to the other joint. Any reason not to do it this way? From what I am thinking and reading, as long as I am tapered and get a good seat it should be good?

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                • That's exactly what i did. My plug was 2 bricks wide, and 2 deep. I haven't fired it yet, but i stood on it, and seems solid.

                  Be sure of your fit, once you get those first two in there, they are not coming out. I cut mine on the tight side, and they are about 1/8" above the next row by the time mortar was in the joint. When i realized it, there was no getting them out without cutting.

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                  • None of it matters of course - unless you stick your head in the oven, you're not going to see it. But then, some of these ovens are so pretty, I can understand that you may want a single neat keystone.
                    My 42" build: https://community.fornobravo.com/for...ld-new-zealand
                    My oven drawings: My oven drawings - Forno Bravo Forum: The Wood-Fired Oven Community

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                    • Slow and steady...been taking my time to get this part just right and figuring out how to engrave my keystones...ended up just free handing with a Dremel. Cleaned up the inside with some vinegar water, made a small batch of mortar for point and tucking some spots... Thought I got stuck inside 1 time, but just needed to "shimmy" a little further in and drop a shoulder...not going to lie...and I may be weird for this...but I could just stare at the inside of this oven...to be completely closed and see all the individual bricks and the learning and "labor of love" that has gone into it..."I'm not crying, your crying" lol...

                      Next, I need to make a new form for outer arch...I am going for the little bit of flared opening...after playing around with some bricks, it does seem like it might be a bit more work than just going straight out, but I think it will look nice and add a nice touch for aesthetics.

                      I have a little leveling of the floor bricks to fix, probably just "sand" with another brick and continue to test run a peel over it before I start building my outer arch...

                      I did have 1 question as I was laying in there looking around, I noticed that I have either voids or lack of mortar on the inside edge where my "first" (technically second") course meets the floor, I am not sure if I just missed this or didn't want to get a bunch of mortar on the floor bricks or some spots my cardboard is slightly in the way. Not sure if I need to take the time to tuck these spots? could be a little daunting based on how to get in the oven and all, but willing to take the time if it needs to be done. Let me know thoughts on this, I don't think it is a structural problem as much as it may be a pretty good heat loss. I could send a better picture if anyone needed one for better reference.

                      Thank you again so much everyone that has contributed tips/tricks/and just telling me to get over it and don't over think it, you guys have been great!!! More picture will follow as I move along with outer arch.

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                      • NICE!!

                        Plugging the dome is such a treat. Sticking your head in and cleaning it up? Eh, not so much!

                        Congrats!
                        Mongo

                        My Build: Mongo's 42" CT Stone Dome Build

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                        • Looks great & you're not the only one who's laid in the oven after the plug is set...lot of pride & joy in the project finale! As to the minor gaps in your perimeter, don't bother pointing or filling them...ash will fill in the pockets and the dome's structural integrity is not compromised with any minor issues like those. I am a little concerned with the cooking floor level as you noted. Not sure if a "brick & sand rub" is going to work. You might need a power disk grinder to get those raised edges leveled out if you feel you can't work the peel over some areas.

                          I have a couple raised brick edges in my oven's floor and have just learned to work the peel so I don't catch them or avoid those areas if I need to. I've had the experience of working several ovens with much worse uneven cooking floor bricks & the pizza tastes just as good! Relax & be proud of your accomplishment!

                          P.S., I love the autographed plug
                          Mike Stansbury - The Traveling Loafer
                          Roseburg, Oregon

                          FB Forum: The Dragonfly Den build thread
                          Available only if you're logged in = FB Photo Albums-Select media tab on profile
                          Blog: http://thetravelingloafer.blogspot.com/

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                          • SableSprings thank you and yes you were correct...I had to get the sander out and I did some (well lets be honest, several) dry runs with the peel (it felt good ) to see where any "catches" were. Thank you mongota it really is a treat to be over that hump...
                            I am reading up on this outer arch and vent area and had some questions/observations/verifications... I am doing SS 8" duravent or Supervent whichever I can find for the better $$ or if one is necessarily "better" than the other. I have been reading through JRPizza build and wondering if there is any benefit (draw) for going up 2-3 brick high before attaching the base plate or is this just decorative? And based on the measurement his vent is (9.5 x 6.5) my 12" entry should be plenty big enough area to have a similar sized vent. I was getting a little confused/concerned that some of the builds I was skimming through of 42" had 13.5" entry. Just taking my time planning out this somewhat of last stage before insulation and fire.

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                            • I had to look back on my pictures to jog my memory - there were 3 reasons I built it the way I did. I needed both a square shape for the adapter plate (which took a few courses to transition to) and I needed to carve out some of the last layer to accommodate the downward flange/protrusion of the adapter (see pic 1). Secondly I used a thru-bolt method of attaching the adapter and didn't want to be drilling on the main structure of my serpentine vent, and lastly I thought it gave it some symmetry when looking from the front having the third layer match the bottom curved pieces in terms of the center joint, and then adding a crown forth layer that matched the middle. My whole chimney was sort of a "tale that grew in the telling" (to borrow from Tolkien) in that I really was not sure how it was going to turn out when I started. I might even have gone higher but I was worried about how much weight my vent arches could carry. I had not thought about draw as I knew I had plenty of pipe to put above the chimney, but in retrospect I think the generous opening and curve really allows the oven to "breathe".
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by JRPizza; 04-08-2022, 08:24 AM.
                              My build thread
                              https://community.fornobravo.com/for...h-corner-build

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                              • edonovan
                                Originally posted by edonovan View Post
                                I have been reading...and wondering if there is any benefit (draw) for going up 2-3 brick high before attaching the base plate or is this just decorative? And based on the measurement his vent is (9.5 x 6.5) my 12" entry should be plenty big enough area to have a similar sized vent. I was getting a little confused/concerned that some of the builds I was skimming through of 42" had 13.5" entry. Just taking my time planning out this somewhat of last stage before insulation and fire.
                                The majority of your chimney draft will come from the height of your chimney pipe itself. I used a 48" piece of pipe. A 48" chimney versus one a few inches higher should not matter draft-wise.

                                My landing was 13-1/2" deep. It just seemed to work for me. I transitioned from the landing's arched top surface to a flat spot for the anchor plate with one course of bricks set on edge. 12 bricks total on edge, two bricks wide by six bricks deep. I have an 8" round hole in the top of that 12 brick transition that my anchor plate nests into. I could have used fewer brick but I felt that the footprint of the 12 bricks mortared to the top of the landing arch really solidified things structurally.

                                My landing tunnel itself it an 8" square opening on top of the arch bricks, so 13-1/2" less 8" divided by 2 left me with 2-3/4" of arch brick in front of and behind the chimney opening. Structurally that seemed fine. The bottom of that opening flares out to 10" square. I did the flare in hopes of getting a less turbulent flow as exhaust came out of the oven and was drawn up the flue. The flare was very easy to do with an angle grinder. With a 13-1/2" deep landing and a 10" opening on the underside of the landing arch, 3-1/2" divided by 2, or about 1-3/4" of 'flat' arch brick in front of as well as behind that 10" flared opening.

                                When the exhaust comes out of the oven and into the landing, it sees a 10" square (100 sqin) opening that flares to an 8" (64sqin) square opening. That then transitions to the 8" (50sqin) round opening at the anchor plate. It flows well, I have no smoke stains on my front arch after several years of fires.

                                Photos might be easier than words?








                                Attached Files
                                Mongo

                                My Build: Mongo's 42" CT Stone Dome Build

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