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32" build in Calgary, AB - pompeii neapolitan

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  • On the theme of thermal expansion, generally for the service temperatures we take our ovens to, the expansion is not much of a problem because it's only around 0.5-0.7% (or 5-7 mm for every metre). However, as this thermal cycling occurs every time the oven is fired it is constantly expanding and contracting. The analogy of an expanding chest during breathing is a good one. A tight belt around the chest simply restricts free and easy breathing.

    Water elimination, expanding steam and steam spalling is a completely different issue.

    A semi-circle arch is a relatively stable form two dimensionally and improved in three dimensions, but not completely self supporting. The only true self supporting arch is the catenary arch and it is unfortunately an unsuitable form for an oven because of the low angle at the base and the high crown. In its three dimensional form the catenary dome requires no assistance from either buttressing or bracing. See "Pizza oven becomes a kiln"


    Because kilns experience more than double the service temperatures to that of an oven and the corresponding more than double thermal expansion experienced, methods of supporting the structure were developed. Ovens are not kilns, but the same principles apply. Heavy buttressing introduces energy sapping thermal mass, so lighter weight steel bracing is usually the preferred method. The greater the arch radius, the greater the outward thrust and the greater the need for support.

    If an oven cracks, and many do, it is simply creating its own expansion joint where it needs to. The usual method for refractory engineers designing kilns and furnaces, is to observe where the cracking occurs and then engineer expansion joints at those positions.

    I believe it is preferable to allow the inner oven to expand and contract freely within the outer shell, allowing the insulation layers to act as the expansion joint. But the firing of an uninsulated oven is asking for trouble because of the huge temperature difference between the outer and inner surfaces of the inner oven.

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    Last edited by david s; Yesterday, 03:00 PM.
    Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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    • As mentioned before, the left red line point needs to intersect the vertical center of the brick face or you get a cumulative error as you move up in the courses resulting in a stepping of the brick course. It is cumulative and gets worse as you go up.
      Russell
      https://photos.google.com/album/AF1Q...L9lr_UnUgJbF3Z

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      • Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
        As mentioned before, the left red line point needs to intersect the vertical center of the brick face or you get a cumulative error as you move up in the courses resulting in a stepping of the brick course. It is cumulative and gets worse as you go up.
        the measurement I made applies to any line on the clamp as its perpendicular to the clamp jaw, and when I place the brick, I will place it such that the centre of the brick is at the centre of the clamp jaw - thank you. I can slide in a board of same width as brick with edges locking it to clamp jaw that it grantees brick in centre if placed within its width.

        I had a field trial today and I realized the following:
        1) with my clamp bar screw on the outside, after placing a brick(I did it dry of course), when trying to move the tool upwards it will knock the brick away upwards with it because of the angle lip. the only way regardless of where the length measurement line hits the brick, to get the tool not to knock the brick away is to have a screw on the inner side as well.

        so, as I am missing the screw on the inside, I will try tomorrow to use a 1/8" wood board shim that I place between the inner bar clamp jaw and the inner brick face and might have to put on it slippery substance like a parchment paper , so after I finish placing the brick and unscrew the outer screw, I will pull the 1/8" board shim may be sideways, while it may still shake it a bit it might be less especially if i pull it in the direction where I want the brick to compress for its head joint. that one is what I could use to help aid centre the brick on the clamp jaws.

        2) i am not going the route of using welding to make my custom tool because once I build the first-2nd course and reach above the hearth, I could use the quarter circle template that I made to align the brick if it shakes after removing the trammel clamp upwards.


        I am going next, to adjust the trammel length to be correct with the introduced board in jaw, and then remove all hearth bricks or most of them in centre to install trammel above insulation, build my 1-2 first courses of the dome using the trammel and then put the hearth and protect it by cover and then start building using the template not trammel. might be something different like delaying laying hearth until couple more courses just not decided how yet:

        1/2 brick high is 2.625"/2 = 1 5/16", therefore I should draw a line from top of clap jaw down 1 5/16" and then 16" to the axis, and use 1/8" board shim to slide sideways

        but honestly, I forgot that I have a release button at the inner jaw clamp so that solves the issue of not having a screw, still the issue of the angle between axis line to jaw and the jaw plate are not perpendicular need a board shim to correct it

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        Last edited by IH123; Today, 08:06 AM.

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