new build in werribee

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Thanks again Liteceeper


Are you sure 5-8mm thick is enough thickness I spoke with a couple of knowledgeable people yesterday and both suggest around 50mm, a third 75mm [a little too thick for my liking.

I'm using a stone granite coat when finishing mine. I think I posted a picture somewhere on my thread, they now have newer options eg. marble and hammer finished.

[david s]

Re: new build in werribee

What's interesting with shiralite is you know it's dry by the color it turns. Acquired a burner like Liteceeper used. Will double as a paella burner moving forward. Of course I can use oven too.

When it looks dry it will still contain lots of water. You can test it by placing a sheet of plastic over it when firing. Water will condense under the plastic to show you water is still present.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

When it looks dry it will still contain lots of water. You can test it by placing a sheet of plastic over it when firing. Water will condense under the plastic to show you water is still present.

Thanks David

I already have the plastic ready to go. Doug and yourself are big on this so will be curing that way. My burner didn't show [damn] so will fire up some heat beads this afternoon and get it up too 100c then 150c ish tomorrow. Burner arrives Monday crank it to 200c then. Hopefully by weekend I can wrap it up neat and tidy just like liteceeper and Russell and of course some others.

[brissie]

Re: new build in werribee

Hi oasiscdm,

Not sure about shiralite but my 100 mm insulation on top of CF, has taken weeks to remove the water, with decent fires a few times a week. It's been covered by a tarp so the sun doesn't get to do its job.

Condensate on the plastic is a great indicator especially after a long burn. At first when I thought the insulation was dry but checked the tarp. It was dripping wet. Just now it looks like most of the water has gone.

Cheers,

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Hi brissie

I always thought that about vermicrete on outside of blanket. That's why when talking to commercial builders each one used the cement based layer immediately after the refractory. Made more sense to me for any number of reasons.Locking the dome, preventing ceramic fibres entering oven through cracks, easier the get rid of the water, prevent cracking (by providing a thicker cement based layer (just a theory) etc.

We will see when I finish. Ran out of shiralite, 3 bags short.

Liteceeper

your pipe idea works a treat an absolute treat. Its a bit trickier without the chook wire to tie it too [shiralite on first] but a few tapcons here and there. Only problem should have used smaller tapcons never the less job done very easily.
I see what you mean by having it 6" apart.

See you Monday Mark

[Liteceeper]

Re: new build in werribee

Hi Colin
great to hear the conduit idea is helping, nice to give back on the forum.

With the curing I agree with david s & brissie long & slow, although my oven had a long drying period the render on the CF did not and I have a few cracks around flue area in render, the oven itself is great. What I didn't expect was the slab under the calcium silicate board (50mm) cracked at first big clearing fire.
I was enjoying the crackle and pop of the wood when heard a deeper thud and thought that didnt sound good. Looked around oven brickwork and that looked fine, then noticed two fine cracks in slab from centre to sides and 90 degree to each other.
So I would do a couple more big fires (not to clearing stage) in hind sight to try drive more moisture from calsil board.
That said the cracks are very small and four big firings later no futher movement so things are settling.

[Liteceeper]

Re: new build in werribee

Thanks again Liteceeper

I'm using a stone granite coat when finishing mine. I think I posted a picture somewhere on my thread, they now have new options.

Interested to see the granite coating any info , website, page # ? Your thread is so so long.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Thanks Liteceeper.

Sorry to hear about hearth slab crack, I find it interesting that the slab can crack with insulation on top, but guessing if calsil is wet the water would boil, over heating the slab. I think crocau had same problem. I actually did a test with a calsil offcut and soaked it in water over night it sucked water like a sponge and just letting it air dry took about a week. I weighed it before on kitchen scales. So I guess that's why they say cure long and slow.

My hearth slab is hebel so I have 50 mm calsil plus 75mm Hebel panel, do I'm guessing water has somewhere to go as hebel is an insulator also.

Mine has Been a long build and lots of questions so I guess that's why is long also wanted to document with lots of photos as I find some threads lacking.

See page 8 post 74.

PM me your email address.Liteceeper. I went out last week and got some photos of other options, from the same place.

[Liteceeper]

Re: new build in werribee

Cheers Colin
Will PM email

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

HI all

I have only half the shiralite on the dome.

Fired up the curing device tonight 5 hours with centre and ring 3 going inside surface temps around 100c on the walls top middle and bottom, sides and back, top of dome is 165c.

Thought I would take readings on the outside of dome above the shiralite temps around 58c and the outside of the shiralite just below [180mm] dome bricks was 24c shiralite on the landing arch and at the bottom of the dome near the hearth at ambient temp of 16c.

Found the readings interesting. Shut curing device down put some Hebel in front of the door. about an hour or so later temps throughout very similar. Will do this each night this week while I complete the Shiralite and then once shiralite layer completed [thursday] will crank it up a little to get rid of the water hopefully for 2 nights at least at a higher temp.

This weekend will get the blanket on, will then crank the curing device up while doing this running device for most of the weekend.

Thinking I will give it 10 days of solid curing this way. Not going to use the Heat Beads now the curing device provides plenty of options and appears will get temps right up there. Will actually be interested in how hot the curing device can get the oven with all 4 rings going.

Will start with fires middle of next week depending on above, time and condensation with the plastic. Arrrghhhhhh going away weekend before Xmas so time is of the essence.

How much wood does it take to clear the dome?

[david s]

Re: new build in werribee

How much wood does it take to clear the dome?

Colin,
that all depends on how dry your oven is and how much mass is in your walls and floor. At an estimate it takes about three times more wood to get there if the oven is wet.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Can we assume its dry, walls are 115mm thick.
Just wanting an idea

[david s]

Re: new build in werribee

Test it with the plastic sheet.

[Liteceeper]

Re: new build in werribee

Hi Colin
I copied this from Harriotts build thread so we don't hijack his build.


Anthony

my confusion was around the refractory mortar and HE cement. Is the Refractory mortar actually fire clay? because in the description of your mix there was no fire clay just 2 lots of cement.

I thought about mortaring the floor in place but having spoken to a number of forno experts went the floating route as most others have. Be interested how yours goes over time.

Colin
Not sure of composition of refactory mortar (grey in colour), it was supplied with kit and homebrew mortar is Ben's recipe. The HE cement is a off white portland cement I have been using for my stand brickwork, it is finer ground and hydrates quicker to give a (H) High (E) Early strength.
I keep you posted on floor movements.

[oasiscdm]

Re: new build in werribee

Ok weekend work photo's. Began the shiralite laying 40mm using Liteceeper's method. Works a treat......