Starting new 36" build

[brickie in oz]

Re: Starting new 36" build

I was imagining you cutting 10mm thick facings.....
If you cut at the back of the holes you should be fine.

[Amac]

Re: Starting new 36" build

...facing splits..

Of course - my one dimensional mind at work again

[Gulf]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Dennis,
Just another idea about facing the wood storage with an arch. I puposesly left a reveal in mine for a wooden door. You could use a flattened arch and start just above the corners. The reveal under the middle of the arch would be flat, but that could be covered by a door if it bothers you. This would save some work and would not take away some accessibility to you storage as would furing down the inside corners

[deejayoh]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Update on the progress over the weekend, and consolidating a bunch of stuff I have posted on other peoples threads about countertops

I started laying the bricks for arch over my wood storage area. I don't have any pictures, because I found that building a brick column is apparently more difficult than it appears... I built one side twice, and the other once, and then tore it all down. It's very difficult to keep straight without some sort of guide! I set some string guides last night and got once side mostly done in a fashion that I can accept - but didn't take any pictures. Gulf, I liked your idea but decided that I wasn't going to do doors. Or at least build it so I had to put them in. The punch list is just seeming too long on this project!

I also built out plywood cabinet inside of my BBQ area for storage. That took me a day, but is not terribly exciting to look at, so again - I didn't take any photos. It does give me a decent amount of storage. It's about 15" wide x 36" deep (corner cabinet) by 24" tall. I have no idea what I will store in there - I just hope it doesn't become spider central! I built it out of exterior grade plywood and painted the inside and top surfaces. I figure since it is inside of the cabinet it won't see too much moisture. We'll see. I hope so since there will be no practical way to repair it once the countertops are on!

As for those counters...

I decided to go with concrete. I'm going to use quikcrete 5000, with a bit of portland added and plasticizer/water reducer. AFAIK this is the equivalent of commercial countertop mixes. I also bought some strengthening fibers and pigment to add to the mix from directcolor.com. The countertops will be charcoal colored. I'm using Alkaline free fiberglass mesh - 2 layers - in place of rebar. The combo of the mesh and fibers is supposed to minimize cracking. Again, we shall see. I'm going to rent a mixer from HD for the pour. Since I am adding so many ingredients I want the concrete really well mixed. I've also got about ten pounds of ~3/8" glass. Brown, white and clear mixture. there is a glass recycling place right down the street from me, bought it for a buck a pound.

I will be building the forms this week/weekend. I'm using melamine shelving from HD for those. Plan to use Pam/vegetable spray as a release agent.

Oh, and I also ordered supplies for grinding/polishing. I found a 7-pad set of wet polishing pads for $40 at amazon and I also ordered a router speed control that I can use on my grinder to turn it into a variable speed unit. That was only $16. I already have a diamond grinding cup.

Feeling like I have all my ducks in a row, but would love any feedback/advice. I'm going to try do a couple of small sample squares (maybe an arch keystone?) before I do the big pour.

[Tscarborough]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Just a note on the fiberglass mesh. Make sure that the web size is larger than the largest aggregate in the mix, otherwise it creates a fracture plane in the slab.

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Dee,

Good luck, you are ahead of me on the counters, just finished ripping the melamine. Going to coat the exposed particle board edges with urethane or something like that to prevent swelling of the melamine during the pour. So I will be watching your counter pour closely.

[texman]

Re: Starting new 36" build

DJ
I did the same on thing on the brick arch for the base. I tried to "freehand" it since i was so good from building an oven. NOT. I tore it down and started over "freehanding again" ended up stopping and building a frame to keep me straight and saved the second one using the frame and the dang angle grinder to grind out the uneven and misaligned errors. I vowed my thick head to never lay a brick without a form or string or something besides my crooked eyes and crooked hands. This whole thing has been humbling to say the least.
Sounds like you are ready for the big pour! Good luck with that. I used some silicone caulk in the corners of the forms to get a slightly rounded corner on the bottom edge and an edge tool to round the top. Sounds like you are cast in place, which is easier to me. I would not pour it exactly level. Give it some fall to front or back, whichever is the better in your setup. i just set the forms with the bubble on the edge of the center. it looks like the slope in your surrounding yard will drain towards the kitchen and i suspect the retaining wall channels that away for you. So probably the slope towards the front or weep holes in back. You could do some nice curves next to the oven and the end in your forms. Looking forward to the results. What are you using for base layer?

[deejayoh]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Just a note on the fiberglass mesh. Make sure that the web size is larger than the largest aggregate in the mix, otherwise it creates a fracture plane in the slab.

Good call out. I may need to rethink my mix as the QK5000 does have gravel. I think the countertop mix has only fine aggregate.

[deejayoh]

Re: Starting new 36" build

DJ
You could do some nice curves next to the oven and the end in your forms. Looking forward to the results. What are you using for base layer?

Tracy -
thanks for all the tips. I am putting a curve on the landing at the front of the oven. What did you use for your curve form? I was thinking 2 layers of luan

On the base layer, I screwed plywood strips into the metal studs around each opening, and then cut a piece of Hardieboard to fit in there. None of them span more than 14-16 inches, so I figure the weight will not be a problem. I poured a 4 inch slab on hardie with bigger span than that. I will be leaving the hardie in place. I plan to fill up all the gaps and cracks with caulk before I pour, and then tape over all the seams. Sound like it should work?

Oh, and I changed my plan to use the Quikrete countertop mix - which is special order with a 2 week delivery window, so I am going to be waiting a bit for the pour. Grr..

[texman]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Bummer on the order lead time. At least you aren't cutting chimneys down like me. I used masonite (i think that is what it's called,pegboard w/o holes) I think the luan or melamine is better and i wished i would have used one of those. The moisture makes that masonite do strange things. I should have taped it, i think. Sounds like you have the bases covered. The main problem i had was keeping that vertical edge form supported and straight. It was screwed into my base material and caulked along that joint and double layered, but the moisture and troweling made it a little wavy. Not bad, but you know how it is, the guy that did it can always see it. Looking forward to that polished counter of yours though.
Tracy
Oh crap, i am showing my screwups again. I have so many it's hard not to.

[Breadjunkie]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Dennis,
My 2 cents.........the form is everything. If you have any doubts keep tweaking it until it's solid. Concrete has a way of finding the form's weakness so once you start pouring there's no turning back. The nice thing about concrete though is you can fix it! Read up on all the literature you can find about finishing, i.e., when to float, when to trowel, how to work the edges. It can be overworked as much as underworked. Anyway, your project is looking super. You've done good work so far so I'm sure the counters will turn out fine.
I'm having to switch to other more pressing projects around here so my WFO is on hold for now. I have to live vicariously through everyone else's projects. But if this great weather we're having continues I might still get to it.
Regards, Joe

[deejayoh]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Thanks for the encouragement Joe. I tweaked and fiddled with my forms all weekend. I thought I had it all done, and then realized that the form I made for my precast oven landing was 3" deep, and needed to be 2.5". Doh! Back to the circular saw I guess. But I think I have the forms for my BBQ area in good shape and ready to pour once the concrete arrives.

Funny how with time the plan keeps evolving though. I was at a restaurant last night that had charcoal concrete counters, polished - no aggregate. I really liked the way that they looked. I think I am going to skip adding the glass to my counters. One less thing to worry about.

Something I'd love feedback on - The back of my BBQ counter will be up against an existing retaining wall. Since I am casting in place, I am concerned about the appearance of the joint where the counter meets the wall. I'm not planing to use any rebar to join the two - so cracks along that joint are likely. My thought was that I might install a piece of stainless or aluminum flat bar along the back edge of the countertop, right at counter height. It would serve as a visual break between the counter and the wall, and would also be a handy guide for getting the countertop level when I am pouring. Any thoughts/advice on that idea?

Dennis

[texman]

Re: Starting new 36" build

will the finished counter height equal the retaining wall height?

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Starting new 36" build

Deejayoh,

Finished my forming/reinforcing for the counters this weekend, picked up quikrete 5000 and was going to pour this weekend but could not find the color I wanted locally (at least in 5 lb bags, everything was 25 pounder - yikes) so had to mail order. Understand black/charcoal is a popular color so good luck.

[deejayoh]

Re: Starting new 36" build

will the finished counter height equal the retaining wall height?

there's a 45 degree bevel at the top of the wall, about 3/4 inch high. If I make them perfectly level, the countertops will be just below the bottom of the bevel - Maybe 1/16-1/8 inch under. I think that I will probably make the counters be even with the bottom of the bevel in order to give them a slight slant toward the front (which I think you suggested earlier!)

I will try to post some photos tonight