Texman Build

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

How much vermiculite to fill the oven enclosure? I have mixed and filled 16 cu ft of 10:1 vcrete and i am maybe half way there. I forgot to block off the corners, so probably wasted a 4 cu ft there. I think i am going to get 16 cu ft more and just form it as i go to try and get around a 4" layer over the rest of the dome. I plan to mix a 5:1 with some sand to buttress the vent arch as suggested as well. I already have 5" plus of blanket on the dome, so i think i am past overkill on insulation anyway. Any thoughts? I thought the 16 cu ft was plenty to finish.
I don't have a pic right now, but will post one later and edit this post. I poured the concrete for the area in front of my oven entrance and finally got all the metal frame for the enclosure done. SO just vcrete, concrete board, decorative arch, and decorative landing work,and LEARN how to Cook in the WFO.
Tracy

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

that is cool! So not a total tile veneer, but work some tile/stone in there as border. I like that. I was trying to think of a way to break up the large stucco walls visually. I started to make some recess areas on the walls, but decided it was too much trouble and might look weird. I will do some looking around. Thanks!

Also, you might think about using some of the "old chicago" to to sort of build a "wainscoat" up to the mantle heigth, and maybe from there up do a (brick corner/stucco fill) simular to what brickie did on his fireplace with a (stone corner/brick fill).

The "old chicago" could be cut to 3/4" to 1" thick on your brick saw and attached like stone with thin set to your cement board. I got two face bricks per whole brick on my stand using this method.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

that is cool! So not a total tile veneer, but work some tile/stone in there as border. I like that. I was trying to think of a way to break up the large stucco walls visually. I started to make some recess areas on the walls, but decided it was too much trouble and might look weird. I will do some looking around. Thanks!

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Ah - I used the hardieboard smooth siding - not the shower stuff. It comes in 4 x 8 sheets, the other stuff is only 5 x 3 IIRC. Since it's siding, I assumed it was outdoor rated, but i actually never checked

As for tile - I couldn't find any good pictures of all tile ovens - but I did find this, which would be kinda cool. Stucco + tile. Would fit your decor well

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

thanks DJ
I used hardiboard on the back next to the brick. I have 2 4x8 sheets of 1/2" permabase for the walls. I really like working with the hardiboard better than the permabase, it is stiffer and easier to cut and holds screws much better. My only concern is the hardiboard isn't really recommended for exterior use. But since i am under cover, it would have worked for me and i wish i had used it for this part. But the permabase is rated for exterior use so, it should be good.

i thought about tile, but hadn't seen a build that i liked using tile. What are you thinking?
Color, size etc. ? Got a pic that you have seen maybe? I looked at some marble, but it is so light colored that i didn't know if it would look good. Thanks for the suggestion too.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

Looking good Tracy.

In my experience, hardieboard is much easier to work with than the concrete board. Cuts better, doesn't crumble, holds a screw a bit better. The concrete board is stiffer but if you haven't bought it all, you might want to think about using hardie for the sides.

Looking at your install, I think it would look really cool if it was tiled - especially given that it is all under cover so water isn't an issue. Thought about anything like that?

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

shsssh!! must be a Houdini to work in those tight quarters......

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Just when you think you have all the "suck-work" done, you get a nice wake up call. Installing a steel frame ceiling and covering with concrete board over a big ass brick oven covered with the nastiest insulation around, with about 12" of room, and trying to get screws to penetrate those metal studs while holding that ceiling board and laying on that insulation sucks. Glad that is over. I did manage a 1 5/8" air gap between the wood roof joists and the concrete board ceiling. Just trying to make it as safe as i can. And, did i mention the "fun" of that back wall that had to go in as one piece with the board attached? no way to attach that board back there next to the brick of the house, but i have an 1" air gap there too. That metal frame was really fun next to the bar too, had to do one stick at a time and screw together in place. Enough bitchin', just need to get the board on now and figure out the oven landing and how to cover above the arch. This was definitely one of those jobs that would have been easier without the bar and kitchen being there. You know you married well when they help you do crap like this. If all goes well, the oven will be totally encased in the steel and concrete enclosure. So 6" of blanket, vermiculite and steel studs and concrete board will hopefully contain the heat. The tarp is there just to contain the insulation and will be removed. one side next to ceiling is good, the other not so good. Have some work there and hoping i can come up with a way to cover with the stucco layer. Like a crown molding out of stucco. probably gonna get a pro for the stucco too. Afraid of what i might do with stucco.
Tracy

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

I got the diamond pads from amazon for about $40. Much cheaper than the getting them from the specialty concrete places.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Thanks DJ. Yes it is a troweled finish. I used normal sandpaper on my orbital sander and water from a spray bottle and smoothed it for about an hour in total after it set. Some 100 grit and 220 grit paper. I put the paper on to cover the holes in the orbital sander so it wouldn't suck the muck into the sander. It ruins the paper in about 15-20 minutes, but they are cheaper than the diamond pads. I think it just helped to smooth it some.
I did watch Buddy and tried to follow his method of hard troweled. I wanted them a little darker, but it is fine. Probably better that it is lighter so it doesn't get so hot from the sun.

Waiting on materials gives too much time to think.

[deejayoh]

Re: Texman Build

That bar is looking good! You hard troweled, right? Did you use the Buddy Rhodes approach from his youtube video?

[UtahBeehiver]

Re: Texman Build

Hey Tex,

You are making me look bad with all your progress. Keep up the good work. I am just putting along..........

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

Gave the chimney a haircut this weekend. Total length is 78" plus spark arrestor.
So, that makes 20" below roof and 58" + 3"ish for the penetration height. That is right on for a 5' above the roof. Burned another curing fire and got the dome up to 675 deg +. Some clearing starting to happen, but i didn't want to push the temp just yet and I was putting the insulation on while the fire was burning. The draw is just slightly diminished, but more than adequate. Wore my mask and gloves for that insulation. That stuff is nasty. I had 3 boxes of FB blanket and i used it all. I have 5-6" of insulation. Overkill yes, but in an area that should help just a little. Not the most beautiful application of insulation to a WFO, but thorough and secure. How do you make it pretty? Brickie said cut triangles, but who will ever see it? (just the forum) I did notice a very small amount of smoke coming from the back of chimney through the heat break. No visible holes, but smoke none the less. Going to order another Kaowool and reseal that i guess.
Put another coat on the bar and finished the rock on the backsplash.
On to the enclosure.

[Gulf]

Re: Texman Build

You can shorten it. It won't blow smoke in your face, unless you don't preheat your chimney in certain weather situations or try to start a fire in a high winds . As for as the shakes are conscerned, you might want to take a look at the spark arrestor screen on your cap. The one I bought has 1/2" mesh. I added a galvanized window screen mesh to the inside of mine.

[texman]

Re: Texman Build

David S
I like that idea. That should be the best of both worlds i think.

You guys are gonna make my chimzilla cry. You know, after doing some more study, 5' is actually enough. My code is at least 3' roof penetration and then 2' higher than nearest 10'. Here are my real numbers: my nearest 10' horizontal measurement to a roof structure is 3', so 2' more is 5'. I am at 7.5' to top of chimzilla spark arrestor. So here are my options as i see it: Take that last 3' section out and put that 6" piece in that i have for free to have a 5' chimney and cut chimzilla back to that. Or, keep adding structure to support the stupid thing and hope it doesn't get uglier. (glad it cant read)
DJ That is a great point about the more likely scenario. In West TX, the storm rippin' off my chimzilla is way more likely. I think i need to go back to my normal routine-REDO But what are you guys gonna tell me if i shorten the chimzilla and then it blows smoke in my face. So much fun here.
A side note on cedar roofs: I tried to get my insurance to pay for a different roof last time the hail beat it to smithereens. I wanted a class 4 to get the discount. You can get that from many different roof materials, as you know. If i put a metal roof on, I have to sign a cosmetic waiver. Which means i will never get another roof and have to look at one that has been beat to crap. And they don't lower the premium if you get a metal roof. So, i said, "you guys can keep buying these expensive as heck heavy shake roofs until you figure that out."
Tracy
Will i ever get done with this oven?