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  • deejayoh
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Which is more likely:
    1) shorter chimney causes a roof fire
    2) storm blows 7 foot chimney off your roof

    Just sayin'. Know you had to do it, but seems ridonkulous.

    On a side note, I am not sure why they put shake roofs on houses in west texas. Long ago, we gave up on those up here in the land where cedar trees actually grow. but I digress...

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  • cloita
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    That thing is enormous, I thought my 4ft pipe was obscene... keep up the good work tex!

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  • david s
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Originally posted by texman View Post
    David S and Neil2
    Good points on the vcrete, but opposing IMO. I like the idea of the light mix to control that stuff. But the water is my concern. It is really arid in West Texas and would dry eventually, but it will also be encapsulated. I was planning on adding a couple of vents in the enclosure walls to allow for moisture control, but i don't know if that would pull all the trapped moisture out. Conversely, it will be encapsulated and the dry nasty stuff enclosed, but i have heard from other builders that it settles, which makes it much less effective.
    Maybe i could mix the 12:1 dry and place in the enclosure dry in layers and hand spray with water the get some adhesion?
    Tracy
    Another compromise could be to use vermicrete on the bottom, where some leakage is likely to occur, loose fill the rest and a vermicrete cap on the top. For an enclosure the moisture will eventually find its way out and is not a danger of creating damage.

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  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    I am still stuck on "chimzilla". I think i am going to add some more support to the lower 1/3 and make it part of the stupid thing to cover with siding. This is were a steep roof would be nice to get support. Didn't think about that using my flat roof. It is solid as a rock going in line with the ceiling joist of course, it is the lateral that has some wobble. Not a wobble like it will fall off, just enough to worry about. I am going to build a pergola and i think it will help hide the beast, but it will look like my other chimney anyway.

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  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    David S and Neil2
    Good points on the vcrete, but opposing IMO. I like the idea of the light mix to control that stuff. But the water is my concern. It is really arid in West Texas and would dry eventually, but it will also be encapsulated. I was planning on adding a couple of vents in the enclosure walls to allow for moisture control, but i don't know if that would pull all the trapped moisture out. Conversely, it will be encapsulated and the dry nasty stuff enclosed, but i have heard from other builders that it settles, which makes it much less effective.
    Maybe i could mix the 12:1 dry and place in the enclosure dry in layers and hand spray with water the get some adhesion?
    Tracy

    Leave a comment:


  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    I hope to actually cook something this weekend! I am using your wire idea to secure the insulation, hopefully this week. I think i will put some tapcons into the slab around the oven to tie to and keep that stuff from where i put it.
    That chimney has been a PITA. Once the siding is on and flashed again around the base, i don't think the inner flashing should even be needed. Maybe for the small amount that might blow in at the top. But the top collar should keep that out too.
    My next task is to get permabase on the ceiling above the oven. That will suck more than my big chimney.
    Tracy

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  • deejayoh
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Interesting approach flashing *under* the chimney chase. Seems like it should work. My chimney comes through the peak of my roof and it was a bear to flash around it.

    Pizza by this weekend?

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  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Hey Russell, Welcome back from R&R. Glad you are back among us WFO slaves. I am glad you see lots of progress, because it always seems slow when i look around. I have burned my third curing fire and I purchased a Klein infrared thermometer yesterday. I got that one because the others i found only went to 600deg F. This one goes to a 1000 deg. Last nights fire got the inner dome to 575 F and the outside to around 220 F (no insulation). One thought, i am glad that i didn't insulate yet. I used a freezer bag as a mortar bag and squeezed the refrac mortar into the crack in the arch and behind the vent and it has stayed after two fires. Also, i was looking at the 1/16' crack at the back last night and i could see the light of the fire through it. I can't even see that crack from the inside. I will try and force mortar into that as well. Net really necessary, but since i don't have it insulated, i can do some crack management while i cure.
    That chimney is Texas, Gotta be bigger. I think i may have two or three forno records: 1. tallest chimney? 2. break the arch and start over? 3. Longest build?
    Maybe i am in the hall of shame.
    I got the TEX chimney done. Roofer will do the siding and flashing. I added more cross bracing per Gulf. I couldn't run any 2x4 up but here is what i did. I added a double layer of pipe strapping at each corner that runs from the ceiling joists to the top of the chimney. The straps are secured into ceiling joists and roof joist at bottom and screwed to metal chimney frame at about 1 foot intervals all the way to top. I stressed the straps with vice grips before i secured so it is tight. I used polyurethane adhesive and 7/16" OSB and screwed the plywood on. I put a piece of permabase on for the lid under spark arrestor. I will add some more cross bracing to the ceiling joist underneath to get some more load bracing. Best i could come up with so far for the chimney.
    I did a LOT of cleaning up and i am pleased with the materials i used for the kitchen. Even splattered with everything imaginable they wiped down and look good underneath after all the guck was gone.
    I finished last night with a nice curing fire of oak with enough cedar to smell really good. The beer tasted good too.
    On to the enclosure.
    Tracy

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  • david s
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Originally posted by Neil2 View Post
    "I have vermiculite and will fill the oven enclosure to the brim."

    You may want to consider filling it with a lean (12:1) vermicrete.

    There is some school of thought that this will provide better long term insulation value (less settling ?). In addition you don't have to worry about bits of vermiculite seeping or being blown out of various openings if you are providing ventilation to your enclosure.
    This may be true, although remember that by adding cement, even at 12:1 you are adding close to twice the mass in cement as vermiculite, a reduction in vermiculite on mixing, both resulting in increased density, and also you have to add about a third of the total volume of water that will also have to be removed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Neil2
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    "I have vermiculite and will fill the oven enclosure to the brim."

    You may want to consider filling it with a lean (12:1) vermicrete.

    There is some school of thought that this will provide better long term insulation value (less settling ?). In addition you don't have to worry about bits of vermiculite seeping or being blown out of various openings if you are providing ventilation to your enclosure.

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Hey Tex,

    Been gone for a while and wow, what progress you have made. That is one tall chimney. I am expecting cracks in my build when my curings get a little hotter. Glad to know it is part of the process. Looking good.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gulf
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    You say that your roof is almost flat. From your earlier pics I see a rafter and joice type construction. Whether it's stick built or truss, I can't tell, but. Do you see some way of attaching 4 vertical 2X4's to the sides of the rafters and down to the sides of your ceiling joices. These 2X4's could rise some distance above your roof line. You could attach the 4 vertical metal struts to them. The longer screws would help, but tying this chimney to two seperate planes of bracing (Your ceiling and your roof) would help brace and secure this chimney greatly. As you said," increasing the base size" is not an option and it would just increase the wind load.

    Leave a comment:


  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    The chimney substrate will be covered in 30# roofing felt, so weather penetration may not be a real issue. The triple wall should handle the dangerous heat aspect as DJ said. I am somewhat concerned with the attachment of all this to the roof. My roof is 3/4" t/g plywood base and a modified layer for roof. The roof is almost flat,so easy to work on and attach to. Right now, all that chimney frame is attached to roof with about 12 #10 screws into the plywood only. I am going to go back and add 2x4 underneath the roof and use about 6 longer and heavier screws to attach. main concern is wind load. For instance, today a front is moving through and we are gusting 40-50 mph from the northwest. I can definitely make the frame strong enough with struts and liquid nails to attach the veneer, but all that is only as good as the attachment at the base. Not really afraid of it getting ripped off the roof. That chimney is in close proximity to me sleeping chamber and i don't want to hear it creaking all night if the wind blows. My wife will second that for sure. using wires/cables to brace is ugly and i don't have anything to attach to anyway that i can think of. making the base bigger is possible but back to the ugly side. maybe that roofer has some ideas.
    Tracy

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  • Gulf
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Sounds great! Tracey,
    Glad to see that you are covering the safety bases . I did not think of treated plywood when I made the post, but that might be a good option to reduce the chances of a "distant future" weathering type of failure above your roof line on that tall chimney. One thing to conscider though is the compatablity of treated wood and galvanized metal. We use to seperate the two with a coat of paint or a strip of tar paper (roofing felt). They have changed formulas from the old type of "pinta" treating (I think) but, that might be something also that you could discuss with your roofer.

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  • texman
    replied
    Re: Texman Build

    Thanks Gulf.
    As far as the buttress w/ vcrete, i can do that as a back fill once my enclosure is built and that should be fairly easy and give it all a tight fit. I have vermiculite and will fill the oven enclosure to the brim. I have permabase for the wall and ceiling enclosure. It has a 1 hour and 2 hour fire rating, which i think means it is good for this area of my build.
    My only concern with using concrete board is that it is not a good substrate for mechanical attachments(screws and nails) for the appearance steel siding. I think they would have to glue the siding on, which i don't see as a problem really. I will call my roofer and see if has a preference.
    Tracy

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