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Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

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  • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

    or thin gauge galvanized sheet stock would work too, might be cheaper than aluminum..you get the idea. Whatever you get, maybe look for something that will behave like your cooper....that's why I'm thinking thin gauge if you go with Galv metal..aluminum coil will be very close.
    Old World Stone & Garden

    Current WFO build - Dry Stone Base & Gothic Vault

    When we build, let us think that we build for ever.
    John Ruskin

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    • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

      April showers bring May flowers hold true here. Raining cats and dogs this morning, but the sun came out this afternoon. While it was raining I made my perlcrete template/gage for my dome. Have not decided whether to have a fixed pivot point like Gulf's build or free floating just to make sure everything stays fairly consistent and round. My old eyes have a way of fooling me.

      Have not wack-a-mole my foil (to put vent holes in CF) on the dome yet but is is coming.
      Russell
      Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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      • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

        Looking great Russell,

        Just an idea on what you have already done. (My situation was different, since I hat the "roof-over" to anchor to.) If you could form a perfect circle at the bottom of your hearth, maybe 1" thick, and pour it in concrete. Then drill a shallow hole TDC at the apex of your dome: You would have the means of keeping your vcrete true to form.

        I don't think that you would have to totally destroy your foil. A simple ice pick placing holes on roughly 4" centers should do the job. But of course, most people on this site know that (my obnoxious belief) is a dome vent is the answer to relieving any moisture or pressures related to firing the oven .
        Joe Watson " A year from now, you will wish that you had started today" My Build Album / My Build

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        • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

          It is not that difficult to get a perfect form just doing it free form. Just look at the profile with your eye and tap the vermicrete with the flat of a trowel.
          Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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          • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

            Although I believe a visual perfect form can be achieved by just "eyeballing it" you are doing something quite different with the metal skin. As in building anything a nice solid square foundation is much easier to build a house on and a nice uniform shape will be much easier to put the metal shingles on. I would elect for some type of fixed axis at the top it should not be hard to build something from a few 2x4's that will give you what you need.

            Chip
            Chip

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            • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

              Didn't the build that you are modeling after use some sort of fiberglass or similar shell for attaching the copper? Seems like you will want a more substantial substrate than vermicrete to attach your copper. Lath and mortar seem like a minimum. Maybe you already thought of this and I should just read back a few posts
              My build progress
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              • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                Oh, and one more thought

                Your foil is wrapping 1) a cured oven that is 2) covered by dry CF blanket. You are going to cover that with 3) wet vermicrete.

                Seems to me that putting holes in the foil will do more to let water into the dome than it will be a means of letting it escape. my $0.02. Take it fwiw.
                My build progress
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                • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                  Originally posted by deejayoh View Post

                  Seems to me that putting holes in the foil will do more to let water into the dome than it will be a means of letting it escape. my $0.02. Take it fwiw.
                  Not really, the way I see it, with the foil in this position, is that the wet vermiculite will only lose a tiny bit of moisture from itself exactly where it is sitting against a hole. While moisture underneath the foil will be able to pass through the holes, as vapour, away from the heat source.

                  A far worse position for the foil is outside the vermicrete layer. This is how I did mine and fortunately I put lots of holes in two places, both about 5 sq ins. Now, if the oven gets a bit wet the outer shell gets hot in those two places, indicating that steam is finding its way out through the holes in the foil. The waterl tends to condense under the foil making removal more difficult.
                  Last edited by david s; 04-06-2013, 01:54 PM.
                  Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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                  • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                    Whats the purpose of the foil? Foil=barrier, right? Foil with holes= not a true barrier, right?
                    Whats the point?

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                    • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                      Foil without holes is a barrier to both water and steam. Foil with holes is a barrier to water but not steam.
                      Given the choice I'd not use foil at all, but foil with holes is an improvement on foil with no holes as my previous post explains.
                      Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.

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                      • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                        The CF i found is used for high temp duct work and came with the reinforce foil mesh already intergrated. I did remove the foil for the first layer but found working with CF not pleasant so opted to install second layer out of the box.

                        DJ I am adding abt 3/4" concrete render over the perlcrete for my support base under the copper shingles. I probably could of skipped perlcrete but i wanted a little more insulation.
                        Russell
                        Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                        • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                          Foil facing on duct work protects the insulation. If its perforated the holes may be so small that they are difficult to see with the naked eye. Moisture will escape thru very small holes. If the foil is not perforated an efficient means of doing so would be to use a pounce wheel. They are available at fabric or craft supply stores. Foil is a great insulation retarding radiant heat loss.

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                          • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                            Originally posted by UtahBeehiver View Post
                            DJ I am adding abt 3/4" concrete render over the perlcrete for my support base under the copper shingles. I probably could of skipped perlcrete but i wanted a little more insulation.
                            got it. I would go with Mortar + wire mesh vs. concrete render.
                            My build progress
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                            • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                              Mounted my pcrete template to a pivot point from above, cabbaged some old lumber and built a frame for the template pivot point. Also used an old flat head screwdriver that I ground the end to a point and puntured the foil (both layers). I used the 1" grid of the chicken wire as my guide. Useless info. based on my dome size there are 5240 square inches so this many holes in the foil
                              Russell
                              Google Photo Album [https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...JneXVXc3hVNHd3/]

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                              • Re: Wood Fired Beehive in Utah

                                Dat dare is a heap load a damn holes....

                                Chip
                                Chip

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