My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

[deejayoh]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

That mortar isn't going to stop any water, it's totally porous. but if you put a housing over it you will be fine. The tricky point is going to be where the housing meets the wall. If you go with a peaked roof, the point where it meets the pool wall is going to be a tricky flashing job. Can't tell from the pics how tall the wall is, but if it is not too tall, I would think about a shed-style roof that runs from the top of the wall down to a short wall at the back of the slab, just to not be worried about leaks.

[david s]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

It is obviously too late for you now, but it is a good idea to slope the supporting slab down slightly to the outsides so water is not encouraged under the floor.sometimes a crack will develop where the outside shell meets the supporting slab. It is a good idea to seal these up if they appear.

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

That is something you should address with flashing or something. A sealer like the one I recommended won't keep standing water out for long and using a surface sealer won't help anything but absorption.

You should get that issue sorted out before you seal anything. I have some ideas but it would be good if you take some perspective pictures...no macro shots....it's better to see the whole area.

Stonecutter,
Here are a couple of pictures to help you understand my puddling issue.#1pic: Any water pouring or dripping onto the hearth will come in contact with the floor insulation. #2pic shows: I have since rendered a 2" X 1/2"strip of mortar next too the insulation to help stop this. Although I'm sure over time it will crack. I'm thinking a bead of roof cement or something would be more permanent.

On the front of the oven I will be raising the hearth by a 4" pour which I intend to slant toward the front of oven. I hope this help clarify things.

Let me know if you need any different pics or drawing.

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

That is something you should address with flashing or something. A sealer like the one I recommended won't keep standing water out for long and using a surface sealer won't help anything but absorption.

You should get that issue sorted out before you seal anything. I have some ideas but it would be good if you take some perspective pictures...no macro shots....it's better to see the whole area.

I was thinking the same thing. How are you finishing the back of the oven? Igloo or housing? A housing will easily keep things dry.

I'm planning on building a house type enclosure outside the pool wall and my screen enclosure. The gable end of the dome house enclosure will be against the back side of pool wall and chimney. I think I will be able to control water entering here with flashing, probably step flashing on the back side of chimney. Inside the pool enclosure will be the front and sides of chimney and oven landing with no roof over. This is where my area concern about water intrusion is.

My first priority right now is to set one section of flue pipe then modify my temporary tarp enclosure to allow me to fire the oven. The temporary enclosure will also allow me to insulated, build the permanent enclosure, construct the raised oven landing and the chimney to the point where it will exits the pool screen enclosure. at that point I should be able to remove the tarps and finish the additional height of chimney.

I will try to get some picture and some drawing posted later.


Thank a million.

I think its me that needs to apologize and is being a little slow. I had the terms arse about. so you are doing the arch the same as your vent arches.....Sorry about that.

All's cool Colin, thanks for taking a interest.

[oasiscdm]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Colin, not only am I slow to catch on I'm pretty sure I'm dyslexic. My original plan was the segmental arch. I thought you were asking me why I changed it to a semi circular arch. After rereading my explanation for the about 10th time and reading the other post I finally caught on. My apologizes again.

Attached picture with arch names and a good technical reading PDF

I think its me that needs to apologize and is being a little slow. I had the terms arse about. so you are doing the arch the same as your vent arches.....Sorry about that.

[deejayoh]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

That is something you should address with flashing or something. A sealer like the one I recommended won't keep standing water out for long and using a surface sealer won't help anything but absorption.

You should get that issue sorted out before you seal anything. I have some ideas but it would be god if you take some perspective pictures...no marco shots....it's better to see the whole area.

I was thinking the same thing. How are you finishing the back of the oven? Igloo or housing? A housing will easily keep things dry.

[stonecutter]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

..... My hearth pour tends to puddle in the middle under the oven. I tried to trowel a hump during the pour and was unsuccessful. So I drilled holes in the middle of the puddles to help drain, it if water entered the enclosure. During the tropical storm Andrea at the first of this summer my insulation soak the water up like a sponge.....

That is something you should address with flashing or something. A sealer like the one I recommended won't keep standing water out for long and using a surface sealer won't help anything but absorption.

You should get that issue sorted out before you seal anything. I have some ideas but it would be good if you take some perspective pictures...no macro shots....it's better to see the whole area.

[stonecutter]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

If sealer is a must then I recommend this....Miracle Sealants Company

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Awwh shucks, thats alright.....

YUK................I take all back

[brickie in oz]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Thanks all for putting up with me.

Awwh shucks, thats alright.....

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

The lintels are 3.5 X 5.5". I used 1/2" rebar for reinforcement. I precast and then later set them in place. They, possibly do carry all the weight, but I did place 5-1 vcrete in the void underneath. This pic was taken just after removing the forms for the vcrete. I later packed vcrete in the rest of the space across the span.

I used the 2" removed form each face brick as an added space for vcrete for added insulation.

My lintels doubled as corbels. If you are using whole brick, you could possibly notch the bricks on each side and hide them from side view.

This is not "the" way to do it. It is just the way I did it. You are getting some great advice. The steel lintels will also work just fine in a non high heat application. You just have to decide what you are comfortable with .

Thanks Gulf,
I had to look up Corbels I went back and studied your picture album. It's beginnings to become clear to me and how to build my chimney. Thanks to everyone's help.

I know I'm getting expert info and I'm grateful for everybody's help. I sure I'll ask many more redundant question. My apologizes for being the slow one on the block. I tend to overbuild from lack of knowledge and stupidity. Error on the side of caution helps my sleep at night.

Thanks all for putting up with me.

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

I took some readings which help explain what I was posting about.

Cool thanks for sharing. The battle of thermal breaks challenge has began.

How do your thermal breaks perform?

[Gulf]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

Gulf,
I've seen your concrete lintel very impressive. That's the support that I'm trying to accomplish. I'm guessing your lintel to be 3"x4". What type reinforcement is inside? I'll have to go back and look at your pictures. Does that support the full weight of the rear of your chimney's outer bricks?

The lintels are 3.5 X 5.5". I used 1/2" rebar for reinforcement. I precast and then later set them in place. They, possibly do carry all the weight, but I did place 5-1 vcrete in the void underneath. This pic was taken just after removing the forms for the vcrete. I later packed vcrete in the rest of the space across the span.

But you might want to note that my chimney's outer brick are not whole brick. The way they are cut and laid just make them appear to be whole brick.


I used the 2" removed form each face brick as an added space for vcrete for added insulation.

My lintels doubled as corbels. If you are using whole brick, you could possibly notch the bricks on each side and hide them from side view.

This is not "the" way to do it. It is just the way I did it. You are getting some great advice. The steel lintels will also work just fine in a non high heat application. You just have to decide what you are comfortable with .

[david s]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

A thermal break can also act as an expansion joint if made of a flexible material. This can be useful in reducing cracks to the outside decorative arch by both reducing the temperature differential and physical pressure from expansion of the inner parts of the oven. Think twice about using a heavy, dense, conductive material in this space.
Regarding the radiant heat from the oven mouth, I have a sheet of 500 x500 x 0.55 mm stainless as a landing in front of the decorative arch, completely outside the oven, on my mobile oven and when it's really cranking the radiant heat ( that Dave spoke about) is so strong and the stainless so conductive, that you can't hold your hand on it.

I took some readings which help explain what I was posting about. The temperatures are all in C (so as a rough guide double them for F)
The first pic shows the temp reading from the thermometer probe located about halfway up the dome.330 C
2. The temp of the entry just inside the thermal break/expansion joint 246 C
3. The temp of stainless sheet outside the decorative arch 255 C
4. The temp of decorative arch 101 C
5. floor just inside oven door 532 C

note that the stainless sheet is hotter than the floor in front of it, even though it is further away from the fire. It is also more than double the temp of the decorative arch on which it rests. The stainless has a large surface area to dissipate its heat and is only 0.55 mm thick.
Apart from the stainless issue the readings also show the effectiveness of the thermal break.
Pic 3 does not show it clearly but my thermal break has about 10 mm of vermicrete between the entry and the decorative arch and the top 5mm or so is sealed with Sikafireate.

[kbartman]

Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

No, you don't need rebar in a chimney especially on corners....that is the strongest part of masonry structures, and without being encapsulated in concrete, rebar running up the corners will do nothing structurally.

Correct. For example, just look at some of those huge furnace chimneys or ones that stand in place after a home has burned or crumbled around it.... No bracing, used.

My apologizes..........I'm slow to catch on. Please bare with me, my memory is pictorial, text and reading does not seem to stick. I really appreciate your patience.

Hi KB

I'm curious on your thinking from going from a semi circle arch to the straight sided decorative arch you noted in your previous post. Think I must be missing something.

Colin, not only am I slow to catch on I'm pretty sure I'm dyslexic. My original plan was the segmental arch. I thought you were asking me why I changed it to a semi circular arch. After rereading my explanation for the about 10th time and reading the other post I finally caught on. My apologizes again.

Attached picture with arch names and a good technical reading PDF

I commented on this somewhere else too...rebar is worthless unless it is encapsulated in concrete. A corner is the strongest feature in a masonry wall if it is bonded correctly ( notice a recurring theme?)

I guess if you want to over-engineer the chimney you can core fill the corner brick and have rebar inside. The thing is, if a hurricane or some other force compromised the structural integrity of the chimney, you will need to take it down...rebar or not. Without it, a rebuild is easier....and since lives aren't at stake like a chimney in a house, and you're talking 6'-8', why bother with it.

Thanks again Stonecutter for helping me iron this all out in my head.

One more question if you don't mind. As wet as the Florida summers are, do you recommend any type of sealer on the brick chimney to keep the water out? My hearth pour tends to puddle in the middle under the oven. I tried to trowel a hump during the pour and was unsuccessful. So I drilled holes in the middle of the puddles to help drain, it if water entered the enclosure. During the tropical storm Andrea at the first of this summer my insulation soak the water up like a sponge.

I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions