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My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

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  • kanoer54
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Stonecutter and Gulf both have good ideas...must come from experience. An easy solution would be to set a steel angle as Stonecutter suggested back a couple posts. Inexpensive and quick.
    jon

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  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by kbartman View Post

    What your is thoughts on rebar in the corners of the brick chimney? My worry is the hurricanes we have and waking up to find my chimney crumbled on the pool deck .
    I commented on this somewhere else too...rebar is worthless unless it is encapsulated in concrete. A corner is the strongest feature in a masonry wall if it is bonded correctly ( notice a recurring theme?)

    I guess if you want to over-engineer the chimney you can core fill the corner brick and have rebar inside. The thing is, if a hurricane or some other force compromised the structural integrity of the chimney, you will need to take it down...rebar or not. Without it, a rebuild is easier....and since lives aren't at stake like a chimney in a house, and you're talking 6'-8', why bother with it.

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  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by oasiscdm View Post
    Hi KB

    I'm curious on your thinking from going from a semi circle arch to the straight sided decorative arch you noted in your previous post. Think I must be missing something.

    BTW love your arch neatest I have seen.



    Arhhhhh a beer think I will go get one nice one KB
    Colin,
    I changed my original plan after researching how to get a smooth transition between the dome and inner arch. I learn by seeing. I did not see many smooth transitions on a buttressed arch. I'm sure there here on the sight. There are thousand of pictures to look thru. I came across Utah's picture album and his pictures and how he used his IT to determine his cuts and transition seem very smooth and I could see how to do it. Thanks Utah for your detailed picture album along with Gulf's and many others. I'm a very slow reader, the albums are much quicker for me to gather my info. I hope to start a album on my build, soon as I have time to figure that out.

    Anyway, I'm even slower at typing. So to make along story short I axed the beauty of the buttressed arch and the larger opening for the semi circular arch and have come love her beauty.

    Thanks for the compliment on the arch, although I wish I would have taken the time at the base as I begun the semi circle I should have cut the angle rather then just tilting the brick. I did not think it would show.

    Cheers with the my homebrewed beer, Cream ale

    Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
    No, I'm saying it's what I would do because it's the strongest method. I think you should do whatever you are most comfortable with. A poured 'crete beam would be fine as would angle iron.



    Unless you precast your arched concrete beam, you will have a form back there anyway. Again, if it was me, I wouldn't bother with a wood form in that tight area. I would use 2" rigid foam insulation board, and sister 3 pieces that are cut the arch. You can use furring strips to make the more rigid too. Then just cut the form out later...easy.


    All that said the other ways work too.
    Thanks, Stonecutter good idea.

    What your is thoughts on rebar in the corners of the brick chimney? My worry is the hurricanes we have and waking up to find my chimney crumbled on the pool deck .
    Last edited by kbartman; 01-10-2014, 02:25 PM.

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  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by kbartman View Post
    Are you proposing I build another brick arch in the rear?.......
    No, I'm saying it's what I would do because it's the strongest method. I think you should do whatever you are most comfortable with. A poured 'crete beam would be fine as would angle iron.

    Originally posted by kbartman View Post
    Build another temporary arch support in the rear over the dome.??
    Unless you precast your arched concrete beam, you will have a form back there anyway. Again, if it was me, I wouldn't bother with a wood form in that tight area. I would use 2" rigid foam insulation board, and sister 3 pieces that are cut the arch. You can use furring strips to make the more rigid too. Then just cut the form out later...easy.


    All that said the other ways work too.

    Leave a comment:


  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Hi KB

    I'm curious on your thinking from going from a semi circle arch to the straight sided decorative arch you noted in your previous post. Think I must be missing something.

    BTW love your arch neatest I have seen.





    Arhhhhh a beer think I will go get one nice one KB
    Last edited by oasiscdm; 08-02-2013, 05:12 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
    I would build a brick arch right over the entryway...one of the strongest masonry features
    My plan is to have the brick arch on front entry as seen in my old unrevised drawing showing a buttressed arch. It now will be a semi circular arch. I think my terms are correct. Notice how the base steps up about 1/2" each course. I think this would be ok? My base will now be a bit wider so the inward steps will be more. I think the sides and front will work and support the brick flue wrap. I appreciate need your expertise. Thanks for taking a interest in my build.

    Are you proposing I build another brick arch in the rear?....... Build another temporary arch support in the rear over the dome.?? Seems to me a poured arch would accomplish the same thing and use about the same amount of wood. Am I missing some thing, Its takes me awhile to catch on please help clarify

    Thanks again

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    I would build a brick arch right over the entryway...one of the strongest masonry features

    Leave a comment:


  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by kanoer54 View Post
    KB,
    if your pool cage framing isn't in the way of your proposed flue location, could you cut the bond beam out where it is in conflict with the flue and let the cantilevered ends set on masonry built up on the dome? if the length of the cantilever isn't too long you may just let it cantilever out there without any support. is this a block bond beam with rebar or a cast in place bond beam?

    just another option i thought i'd toss out to consider.
    jon
    Jon,
    I'm some what confused as to what your asking. I will be changing the pool cage framing to wrap the chimney horizontally and down each side vertically.

    I'm not sure what your asking on your last question. I'm not familiar with some of the terms. Can you clarify the terms? My construction experience is only from being a sparky on the job watching the other tradesmen build the structures.

    Leave a comment:


  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by Gulf View Post
    I poured a concrete lintel to keep the wait off of the dome. It spans from the back corners of my vermicrete insulated (brick) chimney.
    Thanks stonecutter and Jon, I hope the attached drawing clears up the muddy water I created. I tend to be the author of confusion Wait that Satan's name....... I'm just confused all the time........ I appreciate your all help, please keep it coming.

    Gulf,
    I've seen your concrete lintel very impressive. That's the support that I'm trying to accomplish. I'm guessing your lintel to be 3"x4". What type reinforcement is inside? I'll have to go back and look at your pictures. Does that support the full weight of the rear of your chimney's outer bricks?

    Leave a comment:


  • Gulf
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by kbartman View Post
    Sorry Guys,
    My explanation is clear as mud to me ............... The clay flue has plenty of room to set on the arch. The decorative bricks surrounding the back side flue need support of some kind, not the firebrick that flue will sit on. I'll try to post one of my highly prized techno paper napkin drawings later, to better explain my dilemma.
    I poured a concrete lintel to keep the wait off of the dome. It spans from the back corners of my vermicrete insulated (brick) chimney.

    Leave a comment:


  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
    Mortaring brick to the arch is only weak if you don't bond the brick correctly.

    I'm not exactly sure what you mean by support on the back of the arch. Are you saying that there is 2" of the arch in which to set your flue on the back of the throat? If so, that is plenty enough for what you need.
    Originally posted by kanoer54 View Post
    KB,
    if your pool cage framing isn't in the way of your proposed flue location, could you cut the bond beam out where it is in conflict with the flue and let the cantilevered ends set on masonry built up on the dome? if the length of the cantilever isn't too long you may just let it cantilever out there without any support. is this a block bond beam with rebar or a cast in place bond beam?

    just another option i thought i'd toss out to consider.
    jon
    Sorry Guys,
    My explanation is clear as mud to me ............... The clay flue has plenty of room to set on the arch. The decorative bricks surrounding the back side flue need support of some kind, not the firebrick that flue will sit on. I'll try to post one of my highly prized techno paper napkin drawings later, to better explain my dilemma.

    Leave a comment:


  • kanoer54
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    KB,
    if your pool cage framing isn't in the way of your proposed flue location, could you cut the bond beam out where it is in conflict with the flue and let the cantilevered ends set on masonry built up on the dome? if the length of the cantilever isn't too long you may just let it cantilever out there without any support. is this a block bond beam with rebar or a cast in place bond beam?

    just another option i thought i'd toss out to consider.
    jon

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by kbartman View Post
    Yes my plan is to set a level course of bricks on top the arch for the flue. seems like a weak point just mortaring the bricks to the top of the arch. Although it looks to be common practice here on the forum, or did I miss some thing? Its a little late now but in hind sight I was thinking I should have tied those into the arch somehow.

    When I get closer to preparing for the counter top I'll try to be more specific in my questions.

    My biggest concern is supporting the back side of the chimney above the dome. There are many ways to skin that cat. I'm considering forming and pouring a arched lintel. I have 5 inches between the inner arch and top of pool wall. I want a minimum of three inches of insulation. That only leaves two inches for support at top dead center of oven. Not sure if that will be sufficient? Another thought is 3"x4" x 5/16" angle iron not sure if the brick could be set directly on top the angle iron? I'm only guessing at this point looking for different ideas and suggestions.

    Pic #1 shows the area of concern.
    Pic #2 shows area for the poured arch.

    My goal is keep the gable end of the low profile dome enclosure hidden behind the chimney, and pool wall if possible.

    Thanks again for everyone's help
    Mortaring brick to the arch is only weak if you don't bond the brick correctly.

    I'm not exactly sure what you mean by support on the back of the arch. Are you saying that there is 2" of the arch in which to set your flue on the back of the throat? If so, that is plenty enough for what you need.

    Leave a comment:


  • kbartman
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by stonecutter View Post
    Set a level brick course above your arch to place the flue.

    The more you overhang. the thicker the counter should be, and the more reinforcement it should have. I don't see why you couldn't have a 12" overhang with a 2" countertop...but specific questions get better answers.
    Yes my plan is to set a level course of bricks on top the arch for the flue. seems like a weak point just mortaring the bricks to the top of the arch. Although it looks to be common practice here on the forum, or did I miss some thing? Its a little late now but in hind sight I was thinking I should have tied those into the arch somehow.

    When I get closer to preparing for the counter top I'll try to be more specific in my questions.

    My biggest concern is supporting the back side of the chimney above the dome. There are many ways to skin that cat. I'm considering forming and pouring a arched lintel. I have 5 inches between the inner arch and top of pool wall. I want a minimum of three inches of insulation. That only leaves two inches for support at top dead center of oven. Not sure if that will be sufficient? Another thought is 3"x4" x 5/16" angle iron not sure if the brick could be set directly on top the angle iron? I'm only guessing at this point looking for different ideas and suggestions.

    Pic #1 shows the area of concern.
    Pic #2 shows area for the poured arch.

    My goal is keep the gable end of the low profile dome enclosure hidden behind the chimney, and pool wall if possible.

    Thanks again for everyone's help

    Leave a comment:


  • stonecutter
    replied
    Re: My 40" Inch pizza oven in Florida

    Originally posted by kbartman View Post
    Thanks Guys,

    The offset was my hair brain idea to allow for more oven landing counter. By pushing the flue back a couple of inches allowing oven face to also be push back giving me more counter........ My original plan was to leave the lintel of the pool wall and use it to support the chimney, with the flue in front of the lintel. I had added additional insulation under the oven, which push the oven dome and insulation into the lintel making me revise my plan. Now I looking for suggestion on how to support the rear of the chimney. I have a few ideas but have not finalized them.



    My plan is polished concrete counter. Not sure how much I can over hang the oven base, still researching and looking for suggestions.
    Set a level brick course above your arch to place the flue.

    The more you overhang. the thicker the counter should be, and the more reinforcement it should have. I don't see why you couldn't have a 12" overhang with a 2" countertop...but specific questions get better answers.

    Leave a comment:

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