MY NEW 42"OVEN BUILD.

[ivancito]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n387288[/ATTACH] I got a lot done in just a few hours yesterday, Insblock 19 is down and my floor pattern is almost complete, just have to get back to the forum is see where the herringbone pattern stops at the front entry or continues to the outer arch entry.
Ivan

[UtahBeehiver]

No, you do not need to drill a hole, just buy some plastic water supply line, at any big box store, long enough to take the pump out of the water tray and into a Homer bucket set off to the side of the saw. You fill the bucket with fresh water periodically and this keeps the pump from clogging up with all the brick sediment if you left it in the factory tray.

[ivancito]

No, you do not need to drill a hole, just buy some plastic water supply line, at any big box store, long enough to take the pump out of the water tray and into a Homer bucket set off to the side of the saw. You fill the bucket with fresh water periodically and this keeps the pump from clogging up with all the brick sediment if you left it in the factory tray.

Ooohh OK I get it now. thanks UtahBeehiver.

[JRPizza]

Here is how I set up my HF saw. I placed a piece of scrap plywood under the saw such that it was a little short in front, allowing me to use the tray without a plug and drain in a bucket, and a little long in the back, so a bucket of fresh water could sit with the pump in it using the tubing that came with the saw. The bucket in the front kept me from having to pull the tray out frequently to dump the brick water, and the one in the back kept the water at the level of the saw making it easier on the pump.

[ivancito]

Well, after laying the floor and dry fitting soldier course and also cutting 50 bricks in half I only ended up with about 1 cup of fire clay. Seems like I will have to start my dome with Firestop50 mortar.
Local mason supply has it for $59.00 a 50lb. bag. Do I need to just add water to this product or should I use it to replace the fireclay ingredient in the homebrew mix?

[ivancito]

I was able to get the fire clay from my mason supplier. Looks like I can start my dome with the homebrew. I hope the cost savings will be worth it since the mason supplier said nothing beats heatstop50 and that my oven would crack if I use the homebrew mix. I trust the members of this forum and the vast amounts of info on building these ovens. Wish me luck.
thanks all.
Ivancito

[ivancito]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n387460[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n387461[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n387462[/ATTACH] Fellas I need help. My soldier course is done(no angle on top of bricks) and I dry fitted a half brick on my first ring and was surprised by the large gap of 1 3/8
I uploaded 3 pics to ask for your advise on how to proceed.
#1.Do I use a shim to pick up the space and fill with homebrew?
#2. Do I cut the brick at the slope angle?
#3. Leave it as is and fill gap with homebrew.
Please chime in guys, I intend on starting mortaring tomorrow morning.
thanks
Ivan.

[ivancito]

I have decided on my own to proceed using shims to fill in the large gap. I have searched thru other builds and could not find a clear answer to my question I posted above and no other forum members have
chimed in to offer advise as of this morning, I want to get an early start on my build. Hopefully all goes well. Wish me luck!
Ivan

[gastagg]

Ivan, sounds like you're already moving ahead, but I affirm the use shims and fill in with mortar. If you can plan how many courses you'll need (find one of the course/brick calculators on the forum), then you can figure out the approximate dimension for the width of the shim. I was able to use about 5-6 shims at a time, stick them in about 1/8-1/4" and by the time I laid 5-6 bricks, I could pull out the shims and use for the next bricks. Do not cut the individual bricks. You'll be there all summer.

[gastagg]

I had a shim dimension of .7". I figured the circumference, subtracted the number of courses multiplied by 2.5" to get the amount of the circumference that would be taken up by bricks, divided the difference by the number of courses, and I had my shim dimension. Then I went and cut some shims with that dimension. Worked great.

[RandyJ]

I think people have done all of your options. I filled mine with mortar as I went and used a spacer to keep it all the same. For mine the fat end of a wire nut worked out just right. Hope that helps

Randy

[ivancito]

RandyJ and gastagg thanks for your replies much appreciated.
I went ahead and layed my first course on a brick shim then gooped it up with homebrew,set my brick held by the IT tool and tapped into place, worked great for me. gastagg I just made a shim that would allow at least an 1/8 -1/4 mortar joint under the first course. The homebrew is great stuff almost bonds as soon as it touches brick, I used 3:1:1:1 mix with 2parts water.
thanks again.
Ivan

[ivancito]

I had a shim dimension of .7". I figured the circumference, subtracted the number of courses multiplied by 2.5" to get the amount of the circumference that would be taken up by bricks, divided the difference by the number of courses, and I had my shim dimension. Then I went and cut some shims with that dimension. Worked great.

If I had to do it again I would have taken your advise on splitting the shim size between several courses/rings but I ended up just shimming my first course so now I should be back on track.
thanks a lot gastagg.
Ivan

[UtahBeehiver]

Ivan,

What are you plans on the arch? If you are going to do a tapered arch (IMHO you should, it makes the course tie-ins much cleaner. Then you need to be starting to think about it soon. It is much easier to tie-into the arch while doing each course then to try and cut the a complex angle tie-in piece if you build the arch after the courses have been placed. Also, what are you going to do to reinforce the full soldiers from the outward forces of the dome sitting on the full brick vertical soldier? Nice work so far.

[ivancito]

Ivan,

What are you plans on the arch? If you are going to do a tapered arch (IMHO you should, it makes the course tie-ins much cleaner. Then you need to be starting to think about it soon. It is much easier to tie-into the arch while doing each course then to try and cut the a complex angle tie-in piece if you build the arch after the courses have been placed. Also, what are you going to do to reinforce the full soldiers from the outward forces of the dome sitting on the full brick vertical soldier? Nice work so far.

Thanks Russell, I think I will spend time today making an arch template and forms and yes I def want to taper the arch for smoother dome transition. As far as buttressing the full soldiers, I'm not sure what to do yet, I did a forum search and several builds were done with only buttress angled bracket on the arch sides and nothing around soldier course perimeter. Still researching the need for soldier course buttress and instructions on how its done. Thanks for all your info and your build is awesome, a one of a kind masterpiece.Ivan