MY NEW 42"OVEN BUILD.

[SteveB48]

How did you cut such a nice curve on your floor bricks?

Steve

[Les]

Steve, the firebrick is pretty soft. Just slightly spin the brick as you feed it and they are easy to shape.

[UtahBeehiver]

Here is link by Gulf showing how to cut the floor bricks that Les is talking about. Keep in mind that if you are enclosing your oven vs an igloo, you may not need to cut the floor to sit inside the dome but rather have the dome sit on the floor bricks.

https://community.fornobravo.com/for...oor-brick-cuts

[ivancito]

How did you cut such a nice curve on your floor bricks?

Steve

Steve, I cut them with the HF brick saw. As Les mentioned just slightly spin the brick or just shave off the big pieces and get as close to your scribed arch line and then spin the brick as its feeding thru the blade.

[ivancito]

Ivan,

What are you plans on the arch? If you are going to do a tapered arch (IMHO you should, it makes the course tie-ins much cleaner. Then you need to be starting to think about it soon. It is much easier to tie-into the arch while doing each course then to try and cut the a complex angle tie-in piece if you build the arch after the courses have been placed. Also, what are you going to do to reinforce the full soldiers from the outward forces of the dome sitting on the full brick vertical soldier? Nice work so far.

Russell, Do you think I can just use hardware cloth and imbed it to mortar cladding just to cover the soldier course thus allowing me to continue with my dome?
Ivan

[SteveB48]

Thanks all. I just finished my pavers and I'm guessing they must be much harder than the firebrick. I'll be getting a new blade before starting the oven dome! I don't want to hijack this thread but I was under the impression that making the floor fit inside the dome was the preferred approach as it allowed you to replace it if need be.

Steve

[UtahBeehiver]

Need others to chime in. I did hemisphere with no vertical soldiers. Imho, I think you can keep working on the dome as long as you bolster the soldiers in the end product. Do a search under user TSCAR, he discussed the need for reinforcement extensively since he did a barrel oven with very cool decorated brick work.

[UtahBeehiver]

Steve,

Might be a good time to start your own thread. Quick answer, it is possible to change a floor brick but I can't recall anyone ever having to in over 5 years on the forum. I dI'd cut my floor inside (lots of work) but I also did an unenclosed igloo. Just suggesting a time resource saver. Cut away.

[ivancito]

Need others to chime in. I did hemisphere with no vertical soldiers. Imho, I think you can keep working on the dome as long as you bolster the soldiers in the end product. Do a search under user TSCAR, he discussed the need for reinforcement extensively since he did a barrel oven with very cool decorated brick work.

I typed TSCAR on the forum search box but I just get several of his post to other threads, also googled tscar site:www.fornobravo but his post do not link me back to his build. How do I get to his build?
thanks
Ivan

[Gulf]

It takes several steps to do but, I found it under the Members List tab at the top of the page. Tscarborough / About / Find All Started Topics.

Here is the shortcut. It Is begun.

[UtahBeehiver]

Sorry, as Gulf found, it is Tscarborough (aka Tscar), go to search feature, and do "advance search" with keyword "arch" and member "Tscarborough". There are several threads about buttressing.

[ivancito]

[QUOTE=ivancito;n387522]

Thanks Russell, I built a jig similar to yours and wanted to make sure I can set it correctly if using JCG31s bevel angle calculations. I marked up your picture the location of the abgle and bevel as they relate to the chart. Do they look correct to you? Will this chart work for my build since I have full solodier course? Thanks for all your help.
Ivan

[ivancito]

So frustrated today!!! I had to recut all 11 pieces of my arch bricks after I noticed I had cut them out of half bricks. I intended to bevel mthe back of my bricks for smoother dome to arch transition whick required a longer brick length. So I got those all cut again and then tried to cut some bricks for my second course and kept getting the inverted V on the inside brick face. Made a jig similar to Hendo but couldn't get it to work consistently, made another jig similar to Utahbeehiver and still trying to make it work, basically got nothing done.

[JRPizza]

Ivan, I feel (felt) your frustration - had similar problem during my build. I used the spread sheet and it was close since the build type matched mine, but it was either not exact, or I was unable to accurately replicate the angles. I ended up cutting scrap pieces with the angle I thought was right, then holding one scrap with my IT and one with my hand to see if there was going to be an inverted vee. If there was, I adjusted. Sometimes I had too much angle and the vee was there, just not inverted . I found an incredibly useful tool, can't remember if I read about it on a forum or not, called a sliding T bevel. I used it to transfer angles from a protractor to my saw, and later used it to find the proper angle by laying it along the top of a brick and pointing it at the center of my oven. You can sort of see what I am talking about in the attached pic. They are cheap! You can get one at Harbor freight for 2.99 without a coupon. They even have a built in level. You might wat to pick one up.

[ivancito]

Ivan, I feel (felt) your frustration - had similar problem during my build. I used the spread sheet and it was close since the build type matched mine, but it was either not exact, or I was unable to accurately replicate the angles. I ended up cutting scrap pieces with the angle I thought was right, then holding one scrap with my IT and one with my hand to see if there was going to be an inverted vee. If there was, I adjusted. Sometimes I had too much angle and the vee was there, just not inverted . I found an incredibly useful tool, can't remember if I read about it on a forum or not, called a sliding T bevel. I used it to transfer angles from a protractor to my saw, and later used it to find the proper angle by laying it along the top of a brick and pointing it at the center of my oven. You can sort of see what I am talking about in the attached pic. They are cheap! You can get one at Harbor freight for 2.99 without a coupon. They even have a built in level. You might wat to pick one up.

Thanks JR for the encouragement, funny you should mention the tool, last thing I did today was buy a protractor and also a magnetic angle finder thing-a-ma-jig. I also downloaded deejayoh dome excel file and imputed my build info, still waiting on reply from other members for clarification of brick saw jig I built. Some of the builders in this forum make it seem so easy but just when I get the hang of something I totally have to start to learn or research this forum before I can do anything on my build. Thank you so much for your replies cant tell you how much it means to us newbies when veterans as yourself take the time and interest in our builds to reply and offer help.
Ivan