For the structure (like many other builds) I chose to use steel studs.
Without a HUGE hassle - only 25 gauge was available. Not pleased, but not willing to chase down #18s for such a small quantity.
Following the theme here (bomb shelter) and the light gauge - I used 12" OC spacing for walls and rafters. This also fits the 3'x5' cement board dimensions better with far less waste.
Also - I plan on a slate roof and a large snow load capacity, as the timber frame may get pushed off for a year due to timing and my workload.
I framed for a cast iron "vent" in the rear that will be mostly hidden by the fence. This is simply for an aesthetically pleasing access hatch for thermocouple replacement. I may or may not actually go through with this.
I got the order process started today for my veneer stone
I also found a local slate expert (Joeseph Jenkins, http://josephjenkins.com/) willing to find suitable material in his yard and offer a bit of help/advice and his book as part of the deal. I am kind of excited about this actually.
I built a jig for the steel trusses, so that they were all the same shape. I then (not shown) assembled most of the roof on the ground by attaching the offset ridge tie and end channels. I then simply lifted it into place and started securing it and adding bridging (again overkill, but I have the spare steel).
Excuse the few crooked braces - it got dark again and I couldn't see. I couldn't stand seeing these in the morning, so removed them and replaced them using the square.
FWIW - there are no CAD plans for this portion. I started to lay them out and decided it was not worth the trouble. So just framing as I go.

Without a HUGE hassle - only 25 gauge was available. Not pleased, but not willing to chase down #18s for such a small quantity.
Following the theme here (bomb shelter) and the light gauge - I used 12" OC spacing for walls and rafters. This also fits the 3'x5' cement board dimensions better with far less waste.
Also - I plan on a slate roof and a large snow load capacity, as the timber frame may get pushed off for a year due to timing and my workload.
I framed for a cast iron "vent" in the rear that will be mostly hidden by the fence. This is simply for an aesthetically pleasing access hatch for thermocouple replacement. I may or may not actually go through with this.
I got the order process started today for my veneer stone
I also found a local slate expert (Joeseph Jenkins, http://josephjenkins.com/) willing to find suitable material in his yard and offer a bit of help/advice and his book as part of the deal. I am kind of excited about this actually.
I built a jig for the steel trusses, so that they were all the same shape. I then (not shown) assembled most of the roof on the ground by attaching the offset ridge tie and end channels. I then simply lifted it into place and started securing it and adding bridging (again overkill, but I have the spare steel).
Excuse the few crooked braces - it got dark again and I couldn't see. I couldn't stand seeing these in the morning, so removed them and replaced them using the square.
FWIW - there are no CAD plans for this portion. I started to lay them out and decided it was not worth the trouble. So just framing as I go.





Everyone has their own likes and dislikes....Seriously you asked a question and gave you my experience with it so far and why I chose them...Either way you go it will function great and look good because light is better than no light at all. Just make sure whatever you go with you install the electric per code and I would make sure you put the lights on a ground fault circuit (GFCI) along with any receptacles if you add any. Easiest way to do that is get a GFCI circuit breaker and then you can use regukar devices outside and still be protected but without the bulky GFCI receptacles. If you choose to go with the GFCI receptackes make sure you purchase WR rated GFCI which stand for Weather Resistant asthere are two kinds now manufactured. Non WR for inside and now most codes require WR for outdoor applications. I was actually thinking of painting the trims the same color as the soffit to minimize the white ring look but I didn't want to start getting silly and crazy and having paint fade and or flake off so just left them for now.
. Honestly, I am embarrassed to say how often I cut a cord with a saw or the hedge trimmer, or shovel, etc. I will tell you that I buy Hubble weatherproof male and female ends by the box and have a lot of short SOJW cords instead of a few long ones. Just don’t take a DIY cord or repaired cord on a job site, the OSHA guy will mumble and twitch as he writes a violation.
Comment