Idaho 36" Build

[mongota]

Pizza peels, my wife surprised me towards the end of my build, she ordered online and picked up a couple wooden ones and a couple aluminum ones from Webstaurant dot com. I use the wooden peels for building the pizzas and loading them in the oven, and the metal ones for moving the pizzas around in the oven and removing them when cooking is complete.

The wood peels have a ~14" square paddle (might be 14" wide by 16" deep where it transitions to the handle) with a 24" handle. I like them a lot and would get the same ones if these disappeared.

The metal ones are ~12" square with a 36" long handle. I like those as well. The metal ones she bought are not perforated. When building the oven and thinking ahead I thought I might want a perforated peel, but the non-perforated does the job. Easy to clean, too.

[AJH]

I'm going to bite the bullet and tear down the brick chimney to open it up more and give myself room to insulate it.

What's the proper thickness of homebrew for a cast chimney transition? I remember seeing a post a while back from david s on the best way to do it but cant find it anymore... Do I need to put in some wire mesh to keep it from crumbling? Should I wait a week before firing the oven back up for it to cure?

Planning on pouring a 10 inch tall transition to the stainless steel chimney, wrapping it in CF blanket, then some perl/verm-crete over that, then tile of some sort. It will add some thickness, but should cut down on the 250 degree bricks radiating heat into my face.

[david s]

This could be what you are seeking.
10

[AJH]

This could be what you are seeking.
10

Yeah, that's it! So it looked like it's a couple inches thick with mesh

[AJH]

This could be what you are seeking.
10

David, what is the mix you used to make a mold for the vent area? Also, do you just chip it out after the casting sets up?

[david s]

I use a fibreglass mould to cast the flue galleries for the ovens I make. But I think you may be referring to the gallery I made for the repair job on an oven that I documented. The mould for it was made using plaster of Paris and perlite. From memory it was about 7:1 mix. The plaster was used so it would set up really fast and the lean mix enabled me to sand it relatively smooth quite quickly, easy to chip away too. I’m pretty sure I coated it in thin oil to assist that removal..

[AJH]

Formed the front vent area to the chimney this weekend and poured the 3:1:1:1 homebrew into the form on Sunday afternoon. No burnout fibers, but it's poured 3 inches thick in most places only 2 inch thick on the front arch. How long should I wait to take off the outer form and wrap it in plastic to cure? Also, is there any special drying fire schedule to follow to dry out the new vent area transition? I would like to fire it up this weekend if at all possible.

[david s]

Forms can be removed carefully after a couple of days. It should be damp cured then for a minimum of a week. Following that it needs to be dried thoroughly which will take at least another week. At 3” thick and with no burnout fibres be very careful heating it up with fire.

[AJH]

I was planning on removing the outer forms and plastic wrapping it with the inner Styrofoam form in place for a week. After the week I'll take out the inner form and wrap the outside with CF blanket and some mesh for a perl/verm Crete layer like gastagg did. Then a tile finish at some point down the road.

I may use a couple fans to help with drying after the damp cure