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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    G'day
    My intent was to find out what you were doing so I could get notifications of your progress.
    Now your asking and I have had a think about it, probably a separate build thread with references back to your build and others which have influenced you as a builder.
    A short read or a longer one if your going to follow the links.
    As a good old friend would put it "just saying" cause I'll follow with interest anyway
    Regards Dave

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  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Hi Dave

    Was thinking of adding it to this thread. What do you think?

    Will be a much smaller thread as you say all reference back to original thread.

    The slab will be.much simpler as I don't have to build it into an existing deck with cantilever to give me my base size. Will build with piers though. The rest will be identical to first build.

    That's why might just leave it in this thread change heading if I can for new location.

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  • cobblerdave
    replied
    G'day Colin
    Interested to watch another oven build. Q. Are you going to include it in this thread or are you going to start a new, referencing you original work?
    Regards dave

    Leave a comment:


  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Hi Russell

    Have most of what I need for the oven. 75mm Hearth slabs 610x305, 300 arch firebricks. Will get Hebel blocks and panels as I need them. I am looking at having the hearth and external oven surrounds all at the same height this time. Table around the oven will be quite sizable 2.5mx2m with storage underneath for around 2 cubic metres of wood. then will pick up shiralite, ceramic blanket, render also when I need it.

    Leave a comment:


  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Hey Colin,

    Glad to see that you are able to start to acquire materials for your new build. I am looking forward to seeing the progression.

    Leave a comment:


  • oasiscdm
    replied
    hi David

    i priced doing it that way, was a little cheaper, but i do want stainless on outside as it looks better. Check my original build. The colourbond idea has given me an idea especially if I could get a matt black outer pipe that may look somewhat better. I might look into that.
    Last edited by oasiscdm; 06-01-2018, 11:33 PM.

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  • david s
    replied
    Colin, That's still very expensive. I presume the 250 mm (10") is the diam of the outer pipe. To make it more affordable you don't need to use stainless for the outer pipe, it can be colour bond. Any sheet metal shop can make this for you in any length. Insulated will improve performance and you can do this easily by stuffing some ceramic fibre blanket in the one inch space between the two pipes at the base, then filling it with perlite or vermiculite then stuffing the top with blanket also. I did this for the double flue for my kiln and have done other ovens this way too, when they protrude through a roof. If you get a cowl with a skirt it will fit inner and outer pipes e.g.. 8" and 10"
    Last edited by david s; 06-01-2018, 05:46 AM.

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  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Hi All

    In my first build, I imported my flue system [Superpro] from the states. Since the same system is now around $1200 [previously $550] imported.
    In my search for an insulated flue system for my next oven, I stumbled on this.

    https://www.timelessclassicwoodstoves.com/

    They have 1m double insulated flue, 250mm double insulated flue, joined makes it 1250mm long, weld a plate to base of short length to create an adaptor plate, a double to single skin joiner and anti downdraught flue for $600 delivered.

    They are based in Adelaide. Will be ordering shortly.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	58a_110x110@2x.jpg Views:	1 Size:	7.5 KB ID:	405177
    Last edited by oasiscdm; 06-01-2018, 12:47 AM.

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  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Hi Shane sorry for not getting back to you. i have not been on site for a while. Wow you read the whole thing, impressive.

    Not sure where you get 4 cuts from. i cut each brick thrice. I worked out the size of my oven by experimenting with various different tapered bricks so it formed the dome arch size i wanted photos in thread. So no cutting. I then constructed [or a mate did] a compound mitre brick saw tray. So only needed to set up each brick, then, if i remember, it needed cutting once, then put on other side cut again rotated and then cut again on other side. for 3 cuts.

    guessing you have finished your oven by now

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  • shanesmith80
    replied
    Gday Colin,

    Has taken me a few days but have read most of your posts.

    I was looking for the answer on whether or not cutting the tapered bricks on the cutting jig had any effect? I have similar tapered bricks and am thinking about building a jig, but it seems to me that the front to back taper of the brick will effect the cutting angles.
    Or at the least the bricks would have to be cut in half and then tapered cutting from each side of the blade as they wouldn't be able to be flipped like i think it was in MrChipsters jig.

    Edit: disregard, figured it out. Needs to be done in 4 cuts.
    Cheers
    Shane
    Last edited by shanesmith80; 03-04-2018, 01:48 AM.

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  • oasiscdm
    replied
    Hi All

    It has been a while but I have been busy due to my front yard being destroyed due to major storm water plumbing blockage. lost my big native gum tree and whole front yard destroyed to realign the pipe work. Have spent the last six months re doing the landscape and am now nearly finished. just one last project out there and I can get out into the back yard and oven mk2.

    I will post some front yard pics shortly. during this time I actually have been re employed back into the same roll I previously had but with a different organisation. feels great to be back at work but less time to do the yard. Hopefully it wont take 2 years of weekends like the last oven took as I have all the tools I am hoping to use no mortar in this one and rely on gravity. so cutting will need to be super accurate.

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  • david s
    replied
    [QUOTE
    Interestig that you think the angle iron is better than the same gauge RHS?
    /QUOTE]

    The RHS I used was only 30 mm square and 1.6 thick.
    The Galv angle I replaced it with is 50 x 50 x 4 mm. Way stronger.

    Leave a comment:


  • smeltitdeltit
    replied
    Originally posted by david s View Post

    Yes, it was on a trailer and I hit a speed bump.
    spacings are 300 mm centres and the steel frame was made from 50 x 50 x 4 mm gal angle with centre supports 50 x 4 mm galv flat bar. The strength of the frame was fine and I've retained it for the rebuild.
    The first stand I made for one of my ovens was made with rolled hollow section, but I felt it had too much flex and now build them with the 4 mm thick angle. The strength and stiffness of the stand is dependent on the size and weight of your oven, (mine weighs 250 kg.) Adding diagonals to the stand will strengthen it heaps.
    Thanks for that.
    My oven will be somewhere closer to 1500kg plus the stand itself I'm calculating.
    Was planning on the the uprights to be from 50x50x3 RHS and the base for the hearth to be 100x50x3 rectangle. Centre supports the same rectangle and have 6 of them with approx 190mm spacing. Diagonals on each of the 5 main uprights , and 11 uprights total ( it's a corner build, 1500x1500)
    Interestig that you think the angle iron is better than the same gauge RHS?
    Whilst it's a lot heavier, it won't be dealing with speed bumps!

    Leave a comment:


  • david s
    replied
    Originally posted by smeltitdeltit View Post

    OK, thanks.
    From other threads, yours was on a trailer, and you hit a speed bump?

    Do you know what the spacing you had on the supports for the hearth?

    I see Hebel make powerpanels that people seem to use as well as a powerfloor panel, I'm wondering why the powerpanel is being used over the powerfloor?

    Edit: Sorry didn't see the link in your post. From the pics, were you using flat iron supports at a spacing of about 400mm?

    I'm planing on rectangle tube and 200mm centres on my hearth base. Im chasing weight as its on a re-enforced low level deck (I know there are a lot of concerns with that in itself but thats another topic)
    Yes, it was on a trailer and I hit a speed bump.
    spacings are 300 mm centres and the steel frame was made from 50 x 50 x 4 mm gal angle with centre supports 50 x 4 mm galv flat bar. The strength of the frame was fine and I've retained it for the rebuild.
    The first stand I made for one of my ovens was made with rolled hollow section, but I felt it had too much flex and now build them with the 4 mm thick angle. The strength and stiffness of the stand is dependent on the size and weight of your oven, (mine weighs 250 kg.) Adding diagonals to the stand will strengthen it heaps.

    Leave a comment:


  • smeltitdeltit
    replied
    Originally posted by david s View Post
    I used Hebel power panel (steel reinforced) for my mobile oven and attribute its failure to other structural problems with the oven. In a stationary location and with a layer of insulation between it and the floor (I only had 1" of 10:1 vermicrete) it may be a different story. But I've since rebuilt the oven using a reinforced concrete base instead. Details here #1
    OK, thanks.
    From other threads, yours was on a trailer, and you hit a speed bump?

    Do you know what the spacing you had on the supports for the hearth?

    I see Hebel make powerpanels that people seem to use as well as a powerfloor panel, I'm wondering why the powerpanel is being used over the powerfloor?

    Edit: Sorry didn't see the link in your post. From the pics, were you using flat iron supports at a spacing of about 400mm?

    I'm planing on rectangle tube and 200mm centres on my hearth base. Im chasing weight as its on a re-enforced low level deck (I know there are a lot of concerns with that in itself but thats another topic)
    Last edited by smeltitdeltit; 09-04-2017, 06:07 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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