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36" Corner Build in Minnesota

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  • mongota
    replied
    Nice progress! I;m playing catch-up on a few threads tonight

    I did the same for the transition from the arch to the chimney anchor plate, I mortared my bricks together (two sets of six bricks) in a form and popped the form and the 12 bricks on top of the arch all at once. Once the mortar set I removed the wood form. Worked great and ensured a level and flat surface for the chimney anchor plate.

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    Spent some time in Texas last week catching up with family. So was not able to progress much until this weekend.

    Before the trip, I was able to cut and grind the first platform bricks for the chimney vent.

    Yesterday I was able to get them mortared into place. I spent some extra time ensuring it was plumb, square and level.

    Today I constructed the side supports for the vent. I decided to build them using bricks cut from a cardboard template and mortared them together before placing them onto the arch. We’ll see if this strategy works or creates other issues. Fingers crossed.

    I hope to get the prices into place in the next couple days in order to finish the chimney vent and get the anchor plate installed by this weekend.

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    Last edited by MnDude45; 08-07-2022, 05:31 PM.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Looking good. You will be able to start curing fires soon.

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    I was able to reconstruct the outer arch and installed the cord and fiberfrax insulation between the inner and outer arch. I was also able to block out the chimney vent. Good progress today.

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  • RandyJ
    replied
    Sorry to hear that. But as you said better to have that happen now then later.

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  • Sixto
    replied
    Originally posted by MnDude45 View Post
    Well, my question was answered by the arch itself. I went out to fill the hairline crack and remove the form. When I did, the arch cracked in three places. I will have to reconstruct the outer arch.
    I share your frustration, I've not been able to control mortar cracks either...my plan is to wait till after curing and chisel/tuckpoint the worst offenders... but I know there will still remain structural weaknesses that could be made worse by our harsh winters.

    Sixto - Minneapolis

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    Well, my question was answered by the arch itself. I went out to fill the hairline crack and remove the form. When I did, the arch cracked in three places. I will have to reconstruct the outer arch.

    It's a definite step back but I'd rather it happen now than later. Very disappointing.

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    Alright, I know all ovens have cracks but…

    I noticed this hairline crack in the outer arch. It’s directly in the middle on the last brick I laid. It runs 2/3 down the front and all across the top. It doesn’t appear noticeable in the back (chimney vent).

    Should I be concerned enough to remove, replace the brick and re-mortar before the removal of the arch form? Or just fill and move forward??

    Thoughts??
    Last edited by MnDude45; 07-12-2022, 08:08 AM.

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    Thanks for the feedback. I proceeded with my plan today and knocked out the outer arch. I tapered the edges against the inner arch and will fill with cord insulation and fiberfrax.

    Another milepost surpassed.



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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    I tapered the bricks to minimize vent/inner arch contact as reduce heat transmission, how well it works, beats me, did not take any measurements. If I were going to build another, I would go with an "L" shape interface stuffed with insulation rope and sealed (like Gulf's build). Heat breaks are a controversial topic, is it worth the effort? Depends on how you are going to use the oven, If you are going to have a pizza party and maybe cook something the next day, a well insulated door, IMHO, gives you more bang for the buck. If you are after multiday cooking an need every BTU you can make then maybe thermo breaks are a good option.
    Last edited by UtahBeehiver; 07-09-2022, 02:39 PM.

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    UtahBeehiver - I am planning to do a inner to outer arch transition which will be similar to yours where the chimney vent will rest on both the inner and outer arch (see below). I plan to cut back the outer arch bricks to allow some space for insulation cord.

    My question is about implications of the chimney vent resting directly on the inner arch without any insulation and potential heat loss in the transfer from inner arch to chimney vent. If you were to it over, would you make any changes?

    Thanks

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    UtahBeehiver - Thanks for the tip. I will use that one to keep on track once I get the spacing locked in with the shims

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  • MnDude45
    replied
    Sixto - I have left 1.25 inch offset on each side of the inner arch for the outer arch. The outer arch will extend out 1 brick from inner arch while extending up from the outer arch leaving a 6" gap for the chimney flue. The chimney stack will rest on both the inner arch and outer arch with a gap for insulation cord and fiberfrax (see Utahbeehiver's build). I am not planning to another extension of the outer arch as it will be covered by the enclosure.

    Best of luck going forward. I'm following your progress and it looks great so far!

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  • UtahBeehiver
    replied
    Once you have the dry fit complete, be sure to mark the centerline of the mortar joint on the plywood form. This will help you from getting "mortar joint" creep as you lay you arch.

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  • Sixto
    replied
    Looks really good! How much of a reveal are you getting between the dome arch opening and the gallery arch? Is that the full depth of the gallery (including flue?) or are you doing another arch in front? These are all questions I'm considering for my build, I'm about one month behind you...

    thanks! Sixto.

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