2024 Neapolitan oven build

[daidensacha]

david s That link is a good read, thanks David.

The shelf will sit flush with the front of the vent arch, which will be 334 mm plus the width of the decorative arch bricks from where the vent meets the oven opening. There will be a 12 mm heat break in the vent, so the granites exposure will be limited to radiant heat from the oven.

im yet to stand in front of this type of oven at heated temperature, but I’m sure you have plenty of experience with it. In winter here it can be cold, usually min temp somewhere between 0 to -7C. I don’t think ithe granite will reach super hot temperatures, but I guess I’m gonna find out.

[david s]

Granite is well known not to like heat because it is sensitive to thermal shock and therefore not a great choice for a wood fired oven, Not sure how close you plan on it being to the heat source, but the combination of heat from the oven on a cold night could be problematic.

"Thermal shock can be exacerbated if the temperature fluctuation is uneven throughout the material. As a material cools or heats too rapidly, tensile stress between the surface and inner layers develops. Depending on the chemical makeup and bonds of a given material, the tension between layers will force the chemical bonds to break."

Fingers crossed.

https://www.colonialmarble.net/hot-p...%20for%20yours.

[daidensacha]

That is some pretty fancy shelf and hearth concrete work.

I have a nice piece of black granite, “Nero Assoluto”, 1450 x 300 x 30 mm that will sit on the front of the shelf, the second tier is for the decorative arch. Handmade green moss 125 x 125 mm Italian tiles to go around the front of the shelf under the granite. That second tier sits level with the top of the insulation fibre board, and the floor bricks will meet the granite at the front of the arch. Did all the plans in Sketchup, down to the millimeter and knock on wood, it came together perfectly. I’m really happy with the result so far.

[UtahBeehiver]

That is some pretty fancy shelf and hearth concrete work.

[daidensacha]

Hearth slab and countertop slab competed.

One week since I poured the hearth slab, so today I removed the formwork. I kept it covered with a tarp this week, and watered it intermittently. Two 20 mm PVC conduit inserted at the front of the hearth slab for electric cable that will power lights mounted on the front of the oven arch surround.

I also inserted 6 conduits in the concrete that sit on the wood base support, and stop about 15 mm from the top of the slab. When I remove the supporting boards under the slab, I’ll drill out the top 15 mm of concrete covering the conduits. Hopefully it is enough to allow drainage of any water build up under the mosaic tiles sheets between the slab and the insulation board.

I poured the shelf on the front of the hearth slab at the same time I poured the hearth slab. It has 5 lengths of 13mm rebar that run from the back of the hearth through to the front of the shelf, 4 with 90 degree bends, and one with 45 degree bend allowing for the difference in the height of the shelf and the hearth.

Two days ago I poured the joining bench (75 mm) top slab, on which I plan to lay a 30 mm granite plate. I’ll remove the formwork for this in a weeks time.

Next steps, clear up around the base and prepare for rendering the base cinder blocks. Then I’ll do the terrace paving before building the terrace roof which will allow me to work rain free on the oven dome.

[NCMan]

Having done this type of work for a long time, I'd wait much longer before pulling the forms, but nothing terrible will happen if you remove them that early. Bottom line, the longer you can retain moisture in any concrete or masonry, the better it cures. When I build ovens, I cover up the concrete w/plastic and cardboard (to block the sun)and leave it alone for as long as I can, including leaving the forms on.

[daidensacha]

Hearth Slab

We had a lot of rain in the last weeks in Bavaria, so not the best conditions to prepare the formwork for the hearth slab. Made the most of one rainy day to work on the formwork for the front shelf in my workshop. Also worked in sketchup on the rebar bends required for reinforcing and the shelf. 5 lengths of 12 mm rebar extend from the shelf into the rear of the hearth. Joined with rebar across the width of the shelf, and with rebar mesh.

Finally this week with some rain free weather I was able to knock up the formwork for the hearth slab, and yesterday I poured the concrete.

I could use some input with regards to timing for removing the formwork from someone who has experience in this. From a resource I found via Google, I would follow the following recommendation. Open to input or corrections.

Remove hearth side forms after 2 days.
Remove shelf formwork and props after 1 week.
Remove hearth supporting forms with props after 1 week.

The concrete should be cured after 28 days. I’m guessing it would be ok to start work on the oven dome before the 28 days, although I do have other work to do to bide my time.

[daidensacha]

Oven base block work finished view

After laying the last course yesterday I filled the blocks with concrete, apart from the two top front opening blocks. Today I’m making a form for a concrete arch I will pour at the top of the front opening. Rebar will be inserted in the sides before filling those last blocks with the arch formwork. Then I can get onto building up the formwork for the oven hearth.

[daidensacha]

Oven Base and Adjoining Bench

My vision for the oven is to have a half round back on the base. The fall of the oven dome will meet the sides at the back of the base, so any water or snow that does blow under roof will have no place to sit, and should run off and down to the floor.

My cinder blocks are 500x250x175 mm (LxHxW), with end blocks the same dimensions and also a half length end block 250c250x175mm (LxHxW).

I played a lot in Sketchup with different ways to cut the blocks and to join them so I can get the curve. They needed to be short enough so that once rendered I can cover the difference in the straight edges.



I created a template that fitted on each block so I could mark the cuts.



The blocks were not expensive, but also not the best quality, varying in height around 5mm. I could have used spacers, and did in places, but opted for setting each block with mortar to maintain a level surface for laying the next course. In retrospect, I would not choose these blocks again, and would fork out the extra 40 Euro to get the quality blocks, which I assume would be more uniform in height and easier to lay.

Took me two days to build the base as cutting the end blocks took time, and I opted for cutting joints in instead of a miter.

[daidensacha]

Oven Foundation planning and preparation

Before starting on the oven, I had to excavate, fill, and compact 9000x5000 mm area 400 mm deep for the new terrace. Took 20 tonne of broken limestone to fill the terrace area, and we had 40 cubic meter mountain of earth in the middle of the garden that we needed to dispose of. I finally finished that part 2 weeks ago, and started work on laying the oven base foundation last week.

Here is the layout plan of the terrace with the desired oven base together with a bench beside it.



The finished slab is layer directly on the compacted broken limestone (“Frankenschotter”). The slab is 200mm thick, and the top will be apron 100mm higher than the level of the terrace paving so no water can run under the oven (wood storage), or under the bench. I’m building a roof over the terrace, so have 50 mm fall over 5 meters.



I also ran electricity cable under the terrace to the oven as I want to have lights on the front of the oven for ambiance.

[daidensacha]

Tobi Hi Tobi, I‘ve been pretty preoccupied, we are building a new terrace in which I will build my oven. As you might know, with the weather here in Bavaria its a lot.of preparation to have the terrace ready for paving.
Page three of posts in this thread, David helped me by bringing my awareness to the fact it would be good to think about reinforcing the Neapolitan dome. He provided sketches, but if you want to look at a good example with images of how the bands are attached to the front of the oven, look in Napolitian style 106cm build inside a hobbit house. Basically upright angles on the side of the arches, with threaded rods across the top of the arch attaching the angles. The bands are then attached to the angles with brackets and threaded rod that can be tightened. I bought stainless steel pieces cut to size and had them welded at a friends fabrication workshop. I bought the stainless steel band online, and will attach the ends to the brackets with studs. It is 14mm stainless rod.

I‘m still a way off but hope to start the foundation of my base next week. My terrace will have a roof, so once that is up I am free to build regardless of the weather.

[Tobi]

[Tobi]

Hi, I follow your post, because I saw that you really plan accurately. I'm building a pizzaoven right now and did a lot of research. What I was also interested you told about is the iron band around the first standing? brick round. How will you fix it? Because I think it would go in the Hight of the ovenmouth, so you can't just put it completly around. One oven builder I know told me he would put a door band "Ofendichtband" between the bricks and iron band because of different movement while heating the oven. I also wrote you an personal message, because I'm also from Bavaria and more or less in the same state of the oven. Maybe we can share some Infos. Thanks for your great planning. I nearly finished my construction under the oven. Images attached. Best regards tobi

[UtahBeehiver]

Nice casting work.

[daidensacha]

Casting the vent gallery

I painted the ply formwork and casting plaster/ vermiculite mould with a release agent. Centered the mould in formwork with a 50mm space between the mould and formwork.

I used dense castable refractory concrete for the vent form.

Following images. Sanded the casting plaster/ vermiculite mould so it was smooth. Important was the flowing form from 373x128mm vent opening to the 200mm diameter opening for the flue.

Painting the mould with release agent worked well, allowing easy removal of the formwork and the mould from the concrete. The mould also absorbed water from the concrete, which softened the mould making it really easy to scrape out.

It’s designed to have 50mm thick walls, so it’s weighty, but I can lift it and there is excess concrete in places that I can remove once it has dried.

The last image shows how the top is designed to fit the flue adapter plate that the flue will sit in.



I’ve got to give credit to david s for the inspiration for this vent. His generosity in sharing his expertise with vermiculite and casting the vent form was really helpful and made this possible. In the beginning it took me a little to get my head around, figuring out how I could adapt his method to my needs. The final outcome is perfect for my planned oven.