Our goal is not to harp on the issue but to make you oven the best it can be. With all your hard work of planning and design, it will be a great oven. A 5 to 1 pecrete mix is suggested for under the floor and dome since this ratio has enough compression strength for supporting the dome and floor and adequate insulation value. Roughly 4" 5 to 1 pcrete equals 2" CaSi. So a total of 4" CaSi equivalent is a very good insulated floor.
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32" build in Calgary, AB - pompeii neapolitan
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I have almost everything I need to build the oven purchased and stored in dry basement over winter, I already purchased perlite, "Ceramic fibre blanket 2300°F 1'' 8LB/FT3 (1 Box 47.3sf)", and 5 count of "Ceramic fibre board 2300°F 2'' X 12'' X 36''" . I even have ThermoBond 915 100lbs refractory mortar purchased about a year ago placed in tight closed plastic pail never opened yet. The only thing I haven't got yet is either refractory castable or a steel plate for the doughnut base. so my design requires using ceramic fibre board under insulation not CaSi board
for weeping holes, I could even cut using my concrete saw shallow channels grid all over the slab; however unfortunately, at this moment, I am still not sure I need to do anything for making a "pooling water" drain from a hole because: I have a 6" thick slab placed mostly on grouted cmu block cores with very little gaps under it and still connected to a bottom slab that is 5.5" thick ... and got lots of fibre on slab. I can't imagine the oven can produce enough moisture to saturate close to 3 tons of concrete between firings . I most likely be a light user of the oven, may be fire it few times a year or so (not good to plan to design it so though). I have a feeling that weeping holes would be more suitable for large open span slabs with wood being stored under the oven that the slab would be bowed in centre creating a gap between the oven base and the slab where it will get filled with no emptiness but moist air. My priority in my oven is to have extremely rigid and stable foundation that will not propagate settlement to oven and water should not get on it. I still have close to a month to research it more and decide , for now just waiting for concrete to cure.
any help about my insulation stack design and if I should use castable refractory for dome wall support or instead use a 1/4" mild steel sheet one? as I am not using tiles under the dome walls, the ceramic fibre board and perlite if they creep or settle could cause settlement on a half brick and that if combined could cause a dome instability, so wanting to put a very solid doughnut under the dome walls ONLY while hearth can be on its own ...
Last edited by IH123; 06-07-2026, 06:47 PM.
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The problem is that water is conductive, air is not. This leads to moist insulation not working as an insulator. This fact combined with water in a liquid state creating more than 1500 times its volume as steam when heated, means that small amounts of water will negate the insulative quality of the insulation. Every oven owner becomes surprised by just how much is generated and how much difference it makes to the efficient operation of their ovens.Originally posted by IH123 View PostI have almost everything I need to build the oven purchased and stored in dry basement over winter, I already purchased perlite, "Ceramic fibre blanket 2300°F 1'' 8LB/FT3 (1 Box 47.3sf)", and 5 count of "Ceramic fibre board 2300°F 2'' X 12'' X 36''" . I even have ThermoBond 915 100lbs refractory mortar purchased about a year ago placed in tight closed plastic pail never opened yet. The only thing I haven't got yet is either refractory castable or a steel plate for the doughnut base. so my design requires using ceramic fibre board under insulation not CaSi board
for weeping holes, I could even cut using my concrete saw shallow channels grid all over the slab; however unfortunately, at this moment, I am still not sure I need to do anything for making a "pooling water" drain from a hole because: I have a 6" thick slab placed mostly on grouted cmu block cores with very little gaps under it and still connected to a bottom slab that is 5.5" thick ... and got lots of fibre on slab. I can't imagine the oven can produce enough moisture to saturate close to 3 tons of concrete between firings . I most likely be a light user of the oven, may be fire it few times a year or so (not good to plan to design it so though). I have a feeling that weeping holes would be more suitable for large open span slabs with wood being stored under the oven that the slab would be bowed in centre creating a gap between the oven base and the slab where it will get filled with no emptiness but moist air. My priority in my oven is to have extremely rigid and stable foundation that will not propagate settlement to oven and water should not get on it. I still have close to a month to research it more and decide , for now just waiting for concrete to cure.
any help about my insulation stack design and if I should use castable refractory for dome wall support or instead use a 1/4" mild steel sheet one? as I am not using tiles under the dome walls, the ceramic fibre board and perlite if they creep or settle could cause settlement on a half brick and that if combined could cause a dome instability, so wanting to put a very solid doughnut under the dome walls ONLY while hearth can be on its own ...
Any mild steel used in the build particularly if thin, is prone to corrosion from the combination of heat and moisture, always use stainless.
Last edited by david s; Today, 12:38 PM.Kindled with zeal and fired with passion.
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